I'd like to think that all outlets are "built to spec"
There should be nothing wrong with using the .89 cent socket with the UL symbol.
Except in a shop environment, how often do you plug/unplug an electrical item ?
The only exception would be a high wattage circuit. I had a 1500 watt space heater plugged into an outlet that got hot. I would expect a pricier socket would make better contact with the plug.
imagine your replacing every receptable in your home......
say 50? the price difference between cheapo to good quality is 3 bucks
so you invest 150 bucks more than the cheap ones.
if you have a electrician install replacements the higher priced ones are a bargain.
150 bucks isnt much to spend for added quality and reability
I look for the words on the actual receptacle, plus the failures I see with regular recepatcles is premature cracking around the ground prong. Decora's have a little more meat there for me.
As for lowes verse HD, I prefer Lowes, at this time since it can change, I run into happier Lowes workers than home depot ones.
Just an observation.....
tom
Nate Nagel posted for all of us...
datz nize
I think you're confusing the regular outlets with screws on the sides and spring barb push in openings in the back with what is being discussed here, spec grade outlets where the screws go into a "loose" nut behind the push in openings. When you tighten the screws on spec grade outlets, the nuts clamp down on the pushed in wires. The screws on the cheaper outlets only hold the wires if you install the wires on the sides of the outlet using the screws. The spec grade ones use the screws for all wires.
Not all are as you describe. There are spec outlets like the Leviton CR15 that are side-wire only. Around here at least they're quite a bit cheaper than the back and side wire ones (ie Leviton 5252) you describe.
Chris
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