On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 13:08:30 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Interesting forum. I took the time to document my useage of all. I
learned that I have many more than I thought.
RV Building= 10-100W CFL (Cool White)
Outer Garage= 6-100W CFL (Cool White)
Site Pole Lights= 6-100W CFL Bug Light
Porch/Exterior Doors= 5- 60W CFL Bug Light
Security on Motion Det= 5-150W Inc Flood
General Site= 2-250W HPS
Attached Garage= 4- 60W CFL in GDO's (Cool White)
Attached Garage= 8- 2 lamp 40W Fluorescent (CoolWhite)
Laundry Room= 2- 2 lamp 40W Fluorescent (Warm White)
Breakfast Room= 4- 60W CFL & 1-100W CFL in fan (Warm White)
Kitchen= 10- 100W CFL in Recessed Cans (Warm White)
Dining Room= 5- 100W CFL Dimmable (Warm White)
Living Room- 4- 100W CFL in Lamps (Warm White)
Family Room= 10- 60W CFL in 2 Fans (Warm White)
MBR= 4- 60W CFL in Fan (Warm White)
MBath= 10- 60W CFL in Vanity Fixture (Warm White)
MBath= 3- 60W CFL in Enclosed (Warm White)
Library= 20- 100W CFL Trac Lights (Warm White)
Halls, Stairs, Baths, BR's,
Desk Lamps, Lamps 14-100W CFL,14-60W CFL, 2- 40W CFL (Warm
Utility Rms 8-100W CFL (Cool White)
In Stock CFL=8-100W, 8-60W (Warm White)
Incandescent 120-100W, 40-60W, 12-25W
Failures since 2004 3-60W CFL, 1-100w CFL
No issues with any as to warm-up, initial brightness, etc. About 90%
GE and remainder are mfr test samples.
This reminded me of my first vacation trip on a cruise ship in 1986. Small
carnival ship. With my ham radio and ship FCC license experience I make my
way up to the radio room. I look in. Man at desk flipping out morse code,
another watching. Fairly small room, no fancy equipment. I look up at the
flashing lightbulb. It is attached to the outgoing transmission line. I
felt safe we had a good communication link!!!
I find different issues all the time. I installed bathroom ceiling light
fixtures only finding out they used bayonet twist lamps costing more, of
course. I changed the sockets, bought new lamps. The first time I turned
them on, they were very dim, then brightened up. After the first start up,
they came on with much more brightness. Must be something with the gas or
GE-Made in China- Best response time by slim margin.
Sylvania-Made in China-Most consistant color.
Bright Star-Made in China-Very cheap. I use in basement and all 3
Watt Saver-Made in China-Only have two. Were promotion.
If you mean buy one that is a flood
light, that's gonna be hard to put into my front
door light. And the problem of outdoor performance
is in cold temperatures, which I believe is an inherent
problem with the technology which has to excite
mercury vapor. It would seem to me that doing that
is always going to be more difficult in cold temps.
The CFLs I've seen for outdoor use did nothing
to improve the time to full brightness, which is
what's being discussed.
I use GE spiral.
Start-up=1,250-1,300 lumens average (10 spiral CFLs).
After 10 minutes=1,440-1,510 lumens. Possibly due to mfg. tolerances?
Also have found that Sylvania CFL bug lights work great. RatingW.
3000K. I use them in post lights. Slowest up to brightness was when
temp was -18F. Probably 5 minutes or so.
Makes sense. I suspect people with those "bath bar" type light
fixtures with the big round globes are more predisposed against CFLs
than those who have only used spirals. Something to keep in mind when
shopping for bathroom light fixtures.
Do you mean CFL's in a globe or globe-shaped CFL's'?
I've got a "bath bar" over the bathroom vanity.
No globes, 4 bare bulbs.
I've got the Feit 75 watt (13 actual) spiral CFL's in there.
Mentioned before I got a couple 18 bulb cases at Menards for 5 bucks a
Since it was my son that bought them and the price is from memory,
let's say 10 bucks for now. Either 28 or 56 cents a bulb.
The same bulbs are in that fixture from at least a year ago.
They produce full light when I flip the switch as far as I can tell.
They get flipped on and off many times a day.
The incandescents we used in there were always burning out.
Besides that, the CFL's don't leave spots in my eyes after I glance at
I'm pretty much sold on CFL's as long as they aren't too expensive.
Doesn't mean others are.
I don't have any recessed fixtures or outside instant brightness
I meant the CFLs that look like globes (but really have a spiral
inside.) That is undoubtedly what your fixture was intended to use
(or else decorative round incandescents) and those CFLs are atrocious
in terms of initial light output and warm up time compared to the
regular spiral CFLs. However, they're more likely to be approved by
the design department.
At my current place there's a similar fixture but it has spirals in
it. No problems. It's not design-department approved, but I don't
really notice it unless I look at it.
What I have found with major consistency in terms of trends:
CFLs with outer bulbs tend to start worse-dim and need more time to warm
up. The upside of those is that they are designed to work well over a
wider temperature range.
CFLs with bare tubing (especially wider-width tubing around 12-15-16 mm
wide) tend to be less-bad at starting dim. Bare-tubing CFLs tend to reach
their "ultimate temperature" much more quickly than CFL tubing within
If you have a strong dislike of CFLs due to warmup requirements,
need to tolerate short on-time, or "the like", Philips has some
somewhat-attractive LED products available at Home Depot. The brighter
ones of those even have high color rendering index and rating for safe use
with the usual-type of dimmers.
There is the matter that the "incandescent ban" has one of its many
exceptions being for meeting/exceeding an energy-efficiency standard,
that all 3 of the "Big 3" meet. So far at least, Philips at Home Depot,
Sylvania at Lowes, and GE at Target.
- Don Klipstein ( firstname.lastname@example.org)
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