I recently found out that my 30's era home has absolutely no insulation
in it, just empty wall cavities. I was considering having them filled
with cellulose insulation. I found a contractor who does it properly,
or so it seems. He drills to holes and probes the cavities to ensure
they are not blocked and fills them. My house has moisture problems
which I will remedy beforehand by installing gutters and replacing the
roof. Sheetrocking the walls is not an option for me.
Is cellulose insulation a good choice or are there other options I
should consider. I know there are other retrofit products (like
cementitious foam) but I don't think they are available in my area.
Thoughts.... well IMHO:
I like cellulose, especially since I've heard it has a more fire
resistance than some fiber glasses, and better R value.
One thought comes to mind, if you have a house with 'moisture
problems', I would check into expanding foam. I think the R value is
higher than Cellulose, and draft/moisture resistant. Check into it,
atleast if you do cellulose, you will be confident your decession was
a educated one.
good luck, tell us what happens, and final comments.
tom @ www.NoCostAds.com
i beg to differ. if you have water getting into your wall cavities,
you are going to have trouble whether you have foam, fiberglass,
cellulose, metal shavings, stale cheerios, or whatever. wood rots when
it's around moisture. you must deal with the moisture first.
cellulose is a widely used and proven product.
no matter what climate you live in, wet insulation does not insulate.
fix the roof and gutters and downspouts and allow the rainwater to
travel far away from the house. snake all rainwater traps. fix any
see also: search google for insulation manufacturers.
No luck finding an Airkrete installer in my area, I even called the
company. Everyone around here uses cellulose. Someone told me that
peeling paint often occurs when there is no insulation in the walls and
that installing insulation often helps this problem. Beyond that I
will install the gutters and new roof and make sure there is adequate
drainage around the house. The R value of cellulose is rated at
3.4-3.7, while Airkrete is more like 3.9. This doesn't seem like a
huge diffference to me.
The problem with celulose is it settles maybe 20%, there is a type of
celulose instal where it goes in damp with a glue binder to not settle,
foam would be the best and give a better seal and vapor barrier
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:02:50 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org (m Ransley)
I've seen the blown in 'glue' type on a tv show, the secret is there
is no glue. Just a little water is added to the insulation as it
exits the how, and then it sticks to everything. However, on TV it
was done for new construction, and I can only imagine it clogging up
if blown into sealed cavities.
I too like the foam stuff, but, once again a butt, I was told not many
people use it, and finding a trained tech might be differcult.
Just thinking out loud, not a how to. :)
tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info
That's been my problem here. I can't find anyone who installs anything
other than cellulose. The impression I'm getting is that cellulose is
not bad, but there are better alternatives. That being said, cellulose
seems to be the most common. I think I am going to go with cellulose
but make sure that moisture and drainage problems are taken care of
better alternative = cotton (not carcinogenic); relatively inexpensive,
generally more costly than cellulose
one example http://www.bondedlogic.com /
best alternative = sheeps wool (not carcinogenic); more costly than cotton
one example http://www.sheepwoolinsulation.ie/
I have a house similar to your's with no insulation in the walls.
So I have been doing a little research on this topic.
One area of concern I have found regarding adding insulation to a
finished house is the lack of a vapor barrier. In new construction a
vapor barrier is added to prevent insulation from getting wet from
condensation that would otherwise occur when moist interior air in
comes into contact with cool exterior temperatures. With retro-fitted
insulation, it is not possible to add a traditional vapor barrier. One
source I've read suggests painting the interior walls with a special
type of waterproofing paint that will act to keep interior moisture
from reaching the blown in insulation.
Other sources I have read do not mention this as a problem. You
might want to research this issue more carefully before going ahead
with cellulose insulation. I would be curious as to the thoughts of
experts regarding this. Is it necessary to take special precautions to
prevent blown in cellulouse insulation from becoming damp from
condensation from moist interior air? If yes, what is the best
practice to address this problem when blowing insulation into a
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