I planed to re-caulk my bathtub and kitchen sink and came to a
decision which caulk to buy. After searching online to educate myself
(I am totally new to home repair, so please bare with me if I ask
stupid questions), apparently I got confused by some discussions.
Lowe's website has some good advice for caulking. As far as I
understand, acrylic latex caulk is not water resistant while silicone
caulk is. So given my usage in kitchen and bath, silicone caulk seems
to be the choice. However, Lowe's website also gives 2 types of caulk
that seems for my usage:
1. Tub and tile: Acrylic sealant gives a flexible, watertight seal. It
is mildew resistant with water cleanup.
2. 100% silicone kitchen and bath sealant: Has the same
characteristics as plain 100% silicone sealant.
My question is if the first one is acrylic, how can it be used for
tub? that is, how can it be both watertight AND water cleanup?
One such type of product is Polyseamseal® White Tub and Tile Adhesive
Caulk. The description for this product is
Seals around tubs, showers, sinks and all bathroom fixtures
Resets tiles, fills cracks and joints
Seals around windows and doors
Won't crack or peel
Goes on easy
Soap and water cleanup
If it can be easily cleaned up by water, then why should it be used to
seal around tubs, showers, sinks, etc in the first place? can anyone
answer the question?
Another question I have for the job I am going to do is that I have a
vinyl floor in my bathroom, the edge of the vinyl at the foot of the
bathtub is kind of curved upward, i.e. the edge is not tightly adhered
to the floor, how do I caulk the joint between the vinyl floor and the
bathtub in this situation? Do I have to fix the problem of curvature
of the vinyl floor first before caulking?
On May 15, 3:32 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
For the same reason that latex paint is widely used for exterior house
paint. As it dries, the molecules link together and it is no longer
the same as it was when it was in the can. I think the silicone
products are more durable, however they are not as easy to work with
as the acrylic.
The vinyl should be secured first, otherwise it will just break away
from the caulk when it's pushed down. Get some adhesive under it,
then put some weight on it to keep it in place.
On May 15, 1:55 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Do you mean when the acrylic latex caulk dries, it becomes water
resistant just like the silicone caulk? So the "water clean up" refers
to the clean up during the caulking process? In other words, the latex
caulk can be perfectly used in bathtub and kitchen where water spill
and moisture is frequent? Just want to make sure.
"Clean-up" refers to cleaning hands and tools before the caulk sets.
I use paintable caulk for rooms other than kitchen and bath, and for
exterior (the tube will indicate what is suitable.)
I use only silicone around plumbing fixtures. Surface must be
absolutely, immaculately clean; wipe with full strength bleach and dry
before application. If not applied smoothly, or if applied on soapy or
dirty surface, it will get mildewy.
Easy to do, once you have a little practice. Use painters tape and
remove right away to get nice straight edge. If your vinyl flooring is
curled, you would probably save a headache or two by replacing it.
My parent's home - only brand new one I have lived in - had vinyl on
kitchen and bath floors. The builder used clear silicone all the way
around under baseboards. Partly, I suppose, to keep bugs out, but also
prevents damage to baseboard when the inevitable flood occurs.
I absolutely refuse to take my clothes off. If you want to bare
anything, please do it in the privacy of your own home.
A retailer is the last place to look for advice. Big box stores are run
by salesmen who know nothing about building materials.
There are more than two. There are also adhesive caulks, plumbers
caulks, butyl caulks and poly caulks, just to name a few.
The same reason that acrylic paint doesn't wash off the outside of your
house. The water is just a carrier.
Good stuff. It hardens after a few years, and will crack if the joint
Already did. For your purposes, it's magic.
I like to use straight silicone caulk in the bathroom. It has a couple
advantages. First, it stays flexible forever. Second, almost nothing
will stick to silicone caulk, not even paint. Mildew cleanup is a snap.
Third, if it starts to get ratty, just pry up one edge and pull the
caulk out. A little scraping and you have a clean joint, which you can
just caulk again.
The best thing to do is replace the vinyl flooring and make sure the new
flooring gets glued all the way to the edges. Then seal the edge with
caulk. If that's too much work, get a bead mold as wide as the loose
vinyl, pump some of your adhesive caulk along the edge, and nail the
bead mold down to the floor along the tub edge. You will be glad the
stuff cleans up with water, because you don't want to leave any voids.
Be generous with the caulk. If your tub is porcelain, you will probably
be able to scrape the caulk off when you finally get around to replacing
the flooring. If the tub is fiberglass, plan on replacing the tub when
you replace the flooring.
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.
Before this turns into a flame war, let me try to help...
All the replies have some validity. All I can say is look at your
exact needs and abilities and go from there. Silicone does have more
durability, but is harder to work with (needs mineral spirits to clean
up). Many of the newer acrylic latex caulks designed for kitchen and
bath use will remain mildew free for several years thanks to
mildewicides they add to the product. Definitely stay away from
painter's grade caulk. See the old guy working in the paint department
at your local store and ask his advice.
If you vinyl is peeling you need to know why. Is it an issue with the
adhesive, not enough, wrong kind? Is the vinyl just way too old? Is
the subfloor damaged in some way? Once you know the answer, your local
flooring store can make some recommendations as to how to fix. Just
adding caulk, and resting a brick on top will only be a temporary band-
aid if there is an underlying issue.
As far as the crack about retailers....There are good and bad, just
like there are good and bad contractors. A well trained retailer will
know more about the specific products he carries than the average
contractor that frequents his store. The question is, did you get a
good one? Someone looking to help won't throw around insults trying to
make himself feel better about his own limitations. If you ask the
right questions and listen to the answers, it's not hard to figure out
what someone's needs are. There are hundreds of different caulks
because there are hundreds of different needs.
Some of my best employees have been former Home Depot / Lowes
employees, and I've done business with contractors that I wouldn't
want to have sweeping my parking lot after I really got to know them.
Then again....the opposite is also true.
Please save the cocky attitudes for the bar after work.
There is no fix. The vinyl is peeling because of water penetration.
Neither the vinyl backing or the latex adhesive used to stick it down
are waterproof. He is doing well to seal the edge, but there is no way
to repair what has already deteriorated. It can be covered with
something fairly permanent, but just trying to glue it back down will
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.