I replaced a friends bathroom sink tailpiece yesterday and I am having
problems with a leak in the pipe with fine threads that goes into the
main body of the tailpipe. It is part RP 6128 in the pic below.
When I first installed the tailpiece, it leaked. So I removed it and
used teflon tape, still leaked. Then I used Rectorseal teflon pipe
seal, still leaked.
So I thought maybe I have a defective pipe. So I got a new one,put it
in, same thing, still leaks. Any ideas? I'm ready to put 5 minute
Epoxy on this thing if i can't stop this leak.
use silicone bathtub caulk, the stuff you put around the tub. be
generous, and its easy to remove in the future but seals great.
I had a leaky toilet tank that leaked at the bolts just a little.
finally gave up and called a plumber/
he used the silicone goo, at first assembly.
Just hand tight at first. When it leaked, I tightened it a bit more
with a wrench, but not at the top where I could risk bending the pipe,
but rather down at the bottom. I took the P-trap out and put my
channel locks not around the pipe, but I grabbed the inner and outer
part of the pipe and gave it a little twist.
Water flows down hill, so wrap each connection, one at a time, starting
at the top with toilet paper, then run the water. This will help you locate
the joint that's leaking. I'd look carefully at the pivot seat.
Assuming that you are right and the mainbody/tailpiece joint is leaking,
I'd return the mainbody. You've already eliminated the tailpiece as the
cause of the leak.
These are low pressure connections and should be easy to make leak-free
unless something is broken or not tightened
Seems impossible, unless the downstream part of the P-trap is higher
than where the tailpiece joins it... or your tailpiece doesn't extend
sufficiently into the P-trap.
You've taped a joint that doesn't need taping and still your leak
persists. Something is wrong, and it can't be gravity.
If it were me, I would:
A) Wrap those fine threads with teflon tape and then tighten the joint.
I realize they're not tapered threads, but the teflon tape will at least
stop the leak.
B) Next time use a WALTEC tail piece. Waltec taile pieces are a single
piece unit that can't leak. They use a big rubber washer at the bottom
of the sink which can be difficult to put on if you don't know to use
silicone caulk as a lubricant when assembling the tail piece onto the
sink. If you slather up that Waltec tail piece with silicone caulk, you
can slide that rubber washer on no problem.
As nestork points out....
tail piece threads are not tapered threads
and as such, the joint is not meant for tape.
BUT tape can sometimes work in these situations.
I had a stubborn tail piece installation and used heavy silicone
vacuum grease to seal it.
An alternative that would work... RectorSeal #2 Soft Set
But I think #2 is no longer available,
replaced by #2 Plus Teflon (everything's gotta have teflon in it!)
On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 1:24:37 PM UTC-4, chaniarts wrote:
tailpiece yesterday and I am having > problems with a leak in the pipe wit
h fine threads that goes into the > main body of the tailpipe. It is part R
P 6128 in the pic below. > http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infplumb/i/in
fpop1.gif > > When I first installed the tailpiece, it leaked. So I removed
it and > used teflon tape, still leaked. Then I used Rectorseal teflon pip
e > seal, still leaked. > > So I thought maybe I have a defective pipe. So
I got a new one,put it > in, same thing, still leaks. Any ideas? I'm ready
to put 5 minute > Epoxy on this thing if i can't stop this leak. > tape isn
't generally used to make it seal, but to make it slippery so yo can tighte
n it some more. they make a sealant putty for this.
Lowes has a teflon sealer that is a white thick liquid in a can with a brus
h. Can sized about like the pvc glue. Works pretty well for me in these s
Double check that it's not the large flange and rubber seal that's mated to the sink itself. It may be leaking there and then running down the tailpipe to give you a false sense of where the leak actually lies.
On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 8:12:44 AM UTC-4, Mikepier wrote:
On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:05:13 -0800 (PST), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Your problem is not uncommon. I worked as a plumber for quite a few
years. Those fine threads were a common source of trouble. I often
wondered why they designed them like that. Anyhow, there is a simple
solution. Make sure both pieces are dry. Then put a thick coating of
silicone caulk on both the male and female threads, and tighten it
firmly. Let the silicone dry before running water or disturbing that
pipe, for at least an hour.
By the way:
The epoxy will probably work too, but you'll never be able to take it
apart again. With the silicone, you can unscrew it, but not easily.
But it's unlikely you'll even need to unscrew it anyhow. By that time,
you'll probably replace it again.
One final thought. Pipe threads such as on a steel pipe, have a taper
to them, which is why they seal as they are tightened. Those fine
threads on those drain pipes have no taper. It's poor design! It
should say on the package to use silicone. (Or be re-designed at the
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