Seemed like an easy thing but getting a bead that looks
decent isn't that easy. Any suggestions?
The tile behind the toilet is coming up and looks like it
has been water damaged. Is there a good way to glue
the linoleum, not tile, down?
Thanks : -)
The caulk part is easy. Use DAP or other water based caulk.
Apply caulk to clean, dry surfaces. It is better practice to not
caulk the back side. Use a medium sized bead. If you have too
much it does not hurt, just harder to clean up and wastes the
material, but better too much than too little.. Completely wet a
large soft sponge. While the caulk is fresh before it develops a
film, wipe as much caulk off as you can. Continue wiping,
rinsing, sponging until you have the results you are after. Make
sure the caulk is completely removed from the floor and the shiny
part of the vitreous leaving only the caulk bead, any film left
will look tacky. Same method for setting self rimming sinks and
similar items. This allows water out to warn you of a failed
For the sheet flooring, spray adhesive is fast and easy. Make
sure to remove overspray with a touch of mineral spirits (easy
while it is fresh). I assume you are talking about a limited
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
"formerly known as 'cat arranger'"
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 15:19:25 -0500, "Buck Turgidson"
You really should keep you caulk IN the toilet, or you will pee on the
I worked as a plumber for many years. I never had a problem with
flooring coming up when I had to do a toilet removal. (unless the
flooring was already loose). I just used the plain white tub caulk
and worked it smooth with a wet rag.
As for loose linoleum, aside from ripping things up, toilet removal,
etc. The only solution is to get a heavy animal syringe, poke holes
in the linolum with an awl, and shoot the adhesive underneath with the
syringe. Then press down firmly and apply weights (bricks), for
several days. Be sure to put a little caulk into the awl holes when
you remove the bricks. It's not a perfect solution, but can extend
the life of the floor for a few more years.
(Be sure the syringe has a thick needle or you will never get the
paste to go thru).
I use white silicone caulk vs painters' caulk, as it is waterproof yet
flexible, and a very effective adhesive. Leave the back side of the base of
the toilet open. That way, if there is a seal leak, you will find it, rather
than have the leakage seep down through the floor.
On the other hand, sealing all the way around prevents any water (say from
the shower, toilet overflow, whatever) from getting IN. If your wax seal is
good, you should never have a leak inside your toilet. The same can't be
said for your bathroom floor in general.
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