I have a couple of questions about cast iron drain waste vent piping.
When you run the pipes under the slab, you'll have to have them come up through the concrete. Before the concrete is poured, the pipes should be wrapped where they'll touch the concrete so that the concrete doesn't touch them (so that you end up with a small empty ring around the pipe). What is it that you wrap the pipes with?
And, secondly, I plan on doing my entire house with cast iron. If you use PVC, the last bit of the stub out is a male-threaded cap. That way, you can screw the p-trap to the stub out. However, with cast iron, you use a tap fixture (tap tee, or tap 1/4 turn, or tap p-trap for a bath tub) that has female threads on the "stub out" side. What do you screw into these fixtures with the modern, no hub system? Do you need a p-trap with male threads, or does a nipple screw to it, or what? Do you have to solder the p-trap on as in the olden days??? And what about the bath tub?
why do your entire home in cast iron? its expensive and hard to work with.
plus water flows easier in plastic because its slippery.
the onl avantage to cast iron is sound. in living areas plastic is noisier, you can hear the water flowing thru lines. some people use cast iron in such areas or foam in place insulate the spaces around such lines to minimize noise
cast iron doesnt screw together its put in place oakum is forced into joint and molten lead is poured around joint. hazardous from burns, fire hazard and messy. moten lead splatters/ some cast iron uses ferncos rubber connectors with power bands.
why do you think the pvc stub out is a male thread.You stub up the pvc a foot or so then cut and glue what you want on it after the slab is poured. You don't want to try to screw pipes together in these tight places.Go with PVC all the way for DWV.
Plumbers, Pipefitters, and Service Technicians local 72 card number 1465687
Well what do you know Somebody wants to do a Real quality plumbing job. On your riser threw the slab use a foam wrap. It's about 1/8" thick 6" wide but about 6 wraps around the pipe Minimum. When you rough in the toilets, use extra wrap. On your tapped T's for sinks ( tapped sand T ) you use a trap adaptor or a Nipple with a female trap adaptor, it depends how far away the T face is from finished wall, that also determines your nipple length ( if you need it) When it comes to no Hub bands use Husky bands Four clamps per. band, much better. If you are going threw the second floor or threw roof you will need Riser Clamps. Lead and Oakum it's just not used any more ( in CA.) it's just not cost effective and the no hub bands are much better.
i dont believe cast iron is necessarily a quality job. certinally p traps and such are better as lastic, easy to disassemble never rust or rot out!!
Plus plastic is slippery so stuff flows better, cast iron can rust if in service long enough... costs a fortune, is heavy and hard to work with. underground where rust can occur from inside and outside its polastic all the way plus fewer joints less likely to leak. plastic runs can be 10 feet.
cast iron isnt just less expensivce its a better product except for noise
Are you a plumber? I am . The traps are outside the walls in residential situation. I don't think you would use a cast iron trap for a sink, That's why you have a trap adaptor. then you can adapt any trap, Plastic or brass. Cast Iron is so much quieter than plastic when you flush a toilets you can't hear it threw the whole house. Cast iron dose come in 10" lengths, It dose cost more than plastic ( ABS ) . Well if I building my own house I would take cast over ABS, PVC ,CPVC . Plastic pipe is a cost thing CHEAPER to buy and install. Price, quality and time in contracting you can have any two but not all three. It's like comparing that hose crap plumbing to copper piping.
you know I think PEX that hose crap you mentioned is better, since each run serves one fixture and it minimizes joints. plus its kinda tolerant of freezing
plumbers dont like things that cost jobs, and cast iron is quiet but other than that PVC has advantages.
The old ice man didnt like refrigerators, they broke down, made noise etc.....
today few use cast for new constriuction and few have a icebox....
Did you read what I said about trap adaptors? there so you can use a pvc or brass trap ( the chrome ones are brass) PEX is good even Mice and Rats like it.
Over 400 years ago, Nostradamus predicted that on Sat, 10 Jun 2006
09:18:00 -0700, in message , snipped-for-privacy@aol.com would say:
Oh hell, I'm not letting plastic come anywhere near my house! Sink traps are going to be brass (doesn't rust). Bath tub and laundry traps will be cast iron. Yes, cast iron will rust, but I'll let whomever owns the house in 2106 worry about it.
Your one of those people that really has no idea what there talking. From your post you have a very limited knowledge of plumbing or any type of piping at best your knowledge is from Home Depot or Lowes. At least if I give advice to someone it's something I have knowledge of. Just so you know My old house was build in 1963 all cast underground and copper DWV ( Drain Waste & Vent I don't want confuse you) above ground.I lived there to last year never had a leak. I have fixed a lot more PVC & ABS leaks compared to cast iron. I have put more pipe than you have seen to all your trips Home Depot. Plastic is cheaper and faster to install that's it only advantage in residential uses.
Over 400 years ago, Nostradamus predicted that on Sat, 10 Jun 2006
05:18:43 -0700, in message , snipped-for-privacy@aol.com would say:
Actually, other than the weight, for this application, ci looks easier to work with. Put the connectors on the two pipes, put the pipes in place, tighten the screws down with a torque wrench (off the top of my head, I'm thinking 60 ft-lbs), support at each connector and at each floor for risers, then not have to touch it again for another 100 years or so.
I was watching one of those shows on tv where someone buys an entry-level home, and the person who sold that home buys a mid-level home, and onwards. Then they redo their respective homes and have the old owners come back and criticize their work (it always works out that way). In the episode I was watching, the couple who bought the (old) entry-level home ripped out the all wood kitchen cabinets and replaced them with that sawdust s**te from Ikea. I about fell out of my chair when I saw that instead of refinishing the wood that had been there for generations, and installing new hardware, they tore it apart and put in that pressed "board" stuff that broke as they were installing it (and probably fell completely apart 30 days later).
I've lived in older homes that are made out of real materials - wood, plaster, and metal -- and I've lived in newer places that are built of paper, plastic, and sawdust. There is no comparison. Once you've had the real stuff, you'll never go for the imitation again.
I'm building this house to build it once and be done with it, and not have to do it again, and then to live the rest of our lives here (40 years or so). So, the external walls will be 2x6 16" oc, the floor joists are going to be 2x12 16" oc, the subfloor is going to be 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, the plumbing is going to be cast iron and brass. This might be more expensive up front, but over our lifetimes it will actually be _less_ expensive, and less of a hassle.
my home was built in 1950, the cast iron is all rotting out and eventually need completely replaced. brass fittings have cracked and leaked. I had 2 homes nearby and the other was the same, a patchwork on the cast iron, 4 inch mains develop splits. my dining room wall plaster is spalling no doubt from this, its coming out this summer. I USED to replace traps every 5 years metal ones rot away:( The ones I replaced with plastic have never leaked. I put the first one in when they were out of metal. Took out a wall once and found a 2 inch or so sink line like tissue paper. real loraine swiss cheese look... I do admit the plastic p traps are cheap, threads a joke I use silicone bathtub caulk on every one when assembling
Granted I am 49:( So I dont know what plastic will be like 55 years from now, long dead be me....
one nice thing drain cleaner doesnt react at all to plastic
but plastic serves well and is the preferted drain materia for us.
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