Question: If a casement window is dripping water from the gap at the top and the water gets between the inner and outer sash, is likely this would cause the water to get behind the drywall and onto the floor?
Reason I'm asking is because, about 10 days ago after it rained, I had water on the floor, and the drywall around the window corner was moist when probing with moisture detector. (but the sill did not seem wet, and the wallpaper was not wet) I wasn't in the room when the leak actually happened though.
I don't know who makes these windows. They are aluminum clad with no markings. The outer frame and outer sill is aluminum, but the inner sill and inner part of the sash is wood.
Today it's rainy, I'm noticing that water is dripping from the gap at the top, so now I'm SUSPECTING this is what happened last time (dripped from the gap at top into the gab between inner and outer sash).
However, I'm afraid to conclude yet that this is the same exact thing that happened 10 days though. Yesterday afternoon I tried squirting water from an empty shampoo bottle directly into the gap at the top and I wasn't able to get water to drip down the gap into the inside. And I suppose that maybe my testing yesterday got the seal wet "primed it" to make drip through the gap at the top this time. But I agree that the seal (V-type flap that fits in the kerf on top of sash) has flattened out since I installed it last spring. I will put some D-Seal rubber weather-strip underneath to give it upward pressure. If water getting past the top seal is cause of what happened 10 days ago then hopefully this will solve it.
I also notice that the association didn't caulk the gap where the siding meets the top of the window. An engineer told me that there really should not be caulk there because if water should ever get behind siding then it would have no place to escape except inward. But I'm wondering if not having it caulked there could also cause a leak if enough water gets into that gap.
I tried to get the association to install drip caps last year, and the property manager agreed to do it, but the workers did not want to take siding off (even though they were replacing other wood that was rotted at various locations). The lack of a drip cap doesn't seem to be helping matters. These windows have a metal frame that sticks outward a little, but no drip cap, and I'm told they have a flange underneath the siding. Do you think I should have the association caulk the gap at the top where the siding meets the window frame, even though an engineer says that's not the right thing to do? Do you think I should push to have drip caps installed?