I have a Carrier Gas Furnace Model #58GS050-2
When I turn the thermostat to Auto or Heat and call for heat, the
electronic ignition clicks, fires up but then nothing afterwards! I
let the pilot stay in this state for 5, 10, 15 minutes but the furnace
never kicks in.
Do I have a faulty solenoid? Again, the pilot lights just fine.
Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Happy new year (brrrrrr)
How would we know? You sure don't give us much information to work with.
If you get pilot but not furnace, then I'm thinking bad gas valve. You might
want to check and see if the gasvalve is getting power.
I read your stupid-ass reply and now I'm wondering how or who should he call
to check to see if he's got power to the gas valve. An electrician? Or did
you mean that he should run out to Radio Shack and buy a wiggy so he can
check if the gas valve has power? BTW, what if the electrician or his
brother-in law tells him that he has no power to the gas valve? Now what?
Hey you alt-hack Moderated dumb-ass!......ever seen a house-fly inside of a
3-wire pilot safety switch before?
Now you gone and done it..........
You was talking his language with the "wiggy" and all,
but when you start using tech terms like "3-wire pilot" you just left his
ass in the dark!!
You have to tell him that it's that thingy under the burners with the "3"
wittle wires going to it,
where the flame the looks like a lighter.........that's it!!!
( kjpro @ starband . net ) remove spaces to e-mail
Want it done yesterday? Or done right today, to save money tomorrow!!
This is Turtle.
What to do now? Stormy can alway just wire around the 3 wire pilot safety
and run it direct till he can figure out what is wrong with it. Awwwwww, You
don't think it could be something wrong with the 3 wire pilot safety switch
do you/ Nawwwww , forget it , Stormy will figure it out and his next area of
the search would be , it's got to be something to do with the ductwork
being too big and letting too much air throught it and causing this problem.
This is Turtle
You know with all that fluttering going on , it would be a lot of horror of
the a event going on and might be able to call it a Offending Device as
Stormy might say.
Hey Does the horse Fly buzz faster if you have 120 volts on the flipper ?
When sensor gets rusty, it does not work well. Remove it and gently rub
off rust/dirt with fine grade sand paper or emery cloth and reinstall.
Furnace works on sequential logic(step by step), really no brainer.
1. Call for heat.
2. Ignite gas as main valve opens.
3. Sense the flame.
4. After buit-in delay, turn on the fan.
So seems like you're stuck in the step where it should sense the
Can't you read the error code off the control module? My Carrier
Weathermatic gives off error code by way of blinking LED on control
Oh yeah. Pretty close to what the manual for my gas furnace
says. I would suspect that every 85 efficiency gas furnace
would have about the same sequence of events. He left out
starting the inductor fan and yes the ignition starts and
then the gas valve opens but the sequence is pretty damn
close. Some of you guys act like it's some kind of black
art that nobody but 20 year veterans can figure out.
Anybody that is reasonably smart and has mechanical
apptitude and reads the manual can figure it out, especially
if someone helps him with some of the arcane terminology.
85 what? Same sequence of events? Does the OP even have an inductor fan
Pretty damn close sequence of events for standing pilot, intermittent pilot
spark ignition, intermittent pilot HSI, direct spark, direct HSI?
Any reasonably smart person such as yourself would be able to check things
to the best of their ability and if then the problem is not apparent, call
someone to have the furnace repaired. If not, then feel free to disassemble
your car engine by reading the owner's manual when it won't start.
Notice I said "mechanical apptitude" and "read the manual."
Some reason you didn't want to include that? and an
owners's manual is primarily a driver manual, which tells
you to go to the dealer any time you have a problem. You
need to look at a repair manual. LOL, maybe you thought
manual training meant you never had to look in a manual.
Due to ignorant replies of Mr. Cawthon and unnecessary cross-posting this
will be my final reply to his drivel and is seen below.
Notice you don't have a clue. The main reason I didn't include "mechanical
aptitude" and "read the manual" is that neither apply to the OP's problem.
I thought it fairly obvious that the point of your post was to state that
the sequence of operation for "85 efficiency" gas furnaces was near
identical. Obviously I've pointed out many different methods of ignition,
therefore many different sequences of operation. I'll reference technical
literature when needed, maybe you need to STFU.
This is Turtle.
Well , you and tony are on a wild goose chace of JB's . What your speaking
about the flame sencer being the problem. Well you can sand on it all you
want and it will do just about as much good as sanding on the tail pipe of
your car to help it start. Well there is two other parts that can cause this
problem and JB wants use to tell you what they are so he can use it as info
to creat trouble here on the newsgroup. We don't give trolls info and have
them use it to run their head about how smart they are. I will email the op
and discuss it but not to JB or yourself so JB can hear what it is. We don't
talk to tolls about info of the systems.
OH, Yea, It's a 58G and not a 58GH if your looking for similar numbers. The
58G is in the old style and 58GH is the new style. Two different horses or
I didn't say anything about a flame sensor, because I don't
know whether he has one or what kind of safety features it
has, I was just being very general. A flame sensor is
listed as one of the parts for my furnace, and I was
surprised at how much info there is.
Probably shouldn't say anything, but it yanks my chain the
way some people thing that other people can't and shouldn't
do anything for themselves. What I can accomplish in 3 hour
may be done in an hour or less by someone that is really
familiar and has done the same thing over and over. But why
not me? I took the carburetor apart on my first Harley and
cleaned it because I though it wasn't operating right. Sure
I put the choke in backwards (so it was partially choked all
the time). But the Harley Dealer didn't catch it when it
told him it idled a little rough, but I got at least 50
percent better gas mileage than before. I remember the
number, because my average speed and the gas mileage over a
400 mile trip were the same, 50. I asked two brothers on a
Matchless and an A.J. about the rough idle, so listened to
it for about 20 seconds, immediately knew what the problem
was and had the choke back in correctly in about 5 minutes.
There's really nothing "wrong" per se with DIY'ing, but all things being
equal, I suppose it just matters how much you value your time and mental
health. Sure, you'll save yourself money by, instead of spending $100 to
have a pro do it in one hour, you spend $50 in parts and spend 3 hours
muddling thru the job yourself. For some people (myself included), doing
something else for those 2 hours that results in significantly less
cussing, wrestling with rusted-on parts, or maybe slicing off a finger
with a power tool is well worth the extra 50 bucks.
And paying the extra $50 to a pro in the first place is far less than
the X-times more $$$ I'd have to pay the same pro to undo what I screwed
up because I didn't know what I was doing or getting into in the first
IMO, spending what amounts to a pittance to a pro so I don't find myself
having water shooting out a pipe, or being without heat or hot water for
an extended period of time, or just plain blowing myself up is well
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