Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a reliable brand and type and model of carbon monoxide detector?
I'd like a battery model, I can change batteries. But, electric outlets are not to be found. All used up with lamps, and such.
Dunno, but try calling your local fire station and see what brand or model they recommend. Locally here, the firemen help the elderly folks and will even do the install.
Consumer Reports says > First Alert OneLink SCO501CN It's a combination unit for smoke and CO. It can be interconnected with others. Stand alone battery model: First Alert CO410
How about an Acme made in China.
Macurco are the ones that I'm used to seeing in commercial installations. They're probably spendy for use in a private home however. CM-15A I believe is the part number of the ones I commonly see (e.g. in hotel rooms with gas fireplaces etc.) I believe those only accept 24V power though (they're designed to be used with fire alarm systems)
nate
Perhaps try to get one that takes a 9V. Ours started chirping the other day, which is probably a low battery indication, but turns out it uses two 3V batteries inside. Do I have any of those on standby? No chance... can't think of a single other thing in the house that uses 'em.
I've got smoke detector, already. Which reminds me of a funny (to me) story.
I'll check my local Wyle E Coyote retail outlet. Might be able to get one that will drop me off a cliff, Beep-Beep!
I was thinking to call my HVAC parts house. Didn't think of that -- maybe my locksmith parts house can get detectors for alarm systems. Interesting idea.
Ouch. One more role specific battery to buy. Lets see. I use AAA, and AA in flash lights. CR123 in camera and a couple flash lights. 9V in smoke detectors. C, D, and square lantern in flash lights, and radio that takes D cells. Specific battey for cell phone. More AA for digicam. And then a specific 3 volt cell for the monoxide detector. That's rough.
I think most CO units either operate off of 120V AC or off a 9V battery, It is easy enuf to tell when buying. The Fire Dept is a great idea. I would like to get our local FD to provide testing for CO detectors the way that they do for smoke/fire alarms. But I don't know if you can buy a can of CO to use. Maybe just putting the unit near the exhaust of a car parked outside would work. I have one detector that is so sensitive that I wish it weren't. It kicks off if I open the fireplace doors with the damper partly closed for more than a few minutes. As long as the damper is open fairly wide, there is no problem. But, it is much safer that way so I guess I should be happy.
Check Goldcrest Electronics, corner (sorta) of Goodman & Clinton:
Can't you just install a new outlet like a regular person? Pick an easy place. Pretend you've got a nice cold beer like a regular person, and get the job done. Sheesh... :-)
And tell that damned choir to keep the noise down.
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I have a First Alert model FCD3N. It uses a 9 vote battery which I had to change yesterday for the first time since I bought it about 3 years ago. (it started beeping)
Freckles
The American Lung Association (or one of its local units) used to recommend
When I was looking for a CO detector I read that Nighthawk sensor elements were the best. I believe they are only available in Kiddie detectors.
I bought a Kiddie Model KN-COPP-3. It will display CO levels starting at
30 ppm but when the "recall" button is pressed it will display past exposure down to 11 ppm. It was the only one I found (except for coexperts) that displayed below 30 ppm.I think they all alarm rapidly at very high CO levels and take a long time to alarm (by design) at low levels.
The CO sensor elements may die after about 9 years. I believe the one I bought becomes obnoxious at that time so you have to replace it.
Some alarms include combustible gas detection (CO is a combustible gas).
I had a little foil envelope of CO once. Got it second hand somewhere but it wasn't open, of course. I think I saved it for when the detector wasn't brand new and now I don't know where it is.
I think mine is first alert and I called and asked about putting it real close to the oil furnace, for the sake of testing it, and she said not to do that, that it would overload and damage the detector thingy inside.
But calling one of the company's that make them would give more recent advice, since technology changes. Please report back here. :)
In my case, my only source of CO would be the oil furnace**, and if the electric power goes out, the furnace will stop running, so I can use an AC powered detector.
**Or the house fire downstairs, but the smoke detector should notice that! :)Thanks, might do that. Parking is sure to be a nightmare. I drive past there often enough. In the early eighties when CB radio was the craze, friends of mine bought parts there. And Masline Electronics, on South Clinton.
They have their own small lot behind the building, accessible from the street which hits Goodman at a weird angle. You'll find it easily.
Years ago we had a first alert and it went off, so I called the fire department and they were there instantly, and in force, with their own detectors that found no problem. I was talking to the Captain and said it was a bit embarrassing to have all those trucks in the street and asked what I could do to prevent another false reading. He suggested getting a Nighthawk to replace the first alert.
The Nighthawk I found was the powered model (I d> Been thinking to buy myself one for Christmas. What's a
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