I went to start my Explorer the other day, and the battery was dead
from sitting so long.
I put a battery charger on it, but I'm not getting anything...zero
amps on the charger.
I've sanded all the corrosion from both contact points, down to shiny
bare metal...still nothing.
I also have a battery tender, so I put that on. It has an LED to
indicate charging...it's not lit.
Does this mean the battery is done for?
probably bone dry;no electrolyte left.
Most lead acid car batteries last abou 4 yrs,less in a hotter climate.
So-called sealed,maintenance free batteries are not "sealed",and thus the
electrolyte evaporates eventually.Often there are removable cell caps under
a label od disguised as not removable,and you can keep the level up with
Are you by chance not connecting the charger directly to the battery
terminals, but perhaps through another path like plugging it into a
cigarette lighter socket?
If so, then look for a blown fuse in the cigarette lighter feed.
If you ARE connecting directly to the battery's terminals and it's still
not drawing any current from the charger, then chances are good that one
of the internal straps connecting the cells in series has snapped loose,
i.e. the battery is junque. A battery which isn't broken but just won't
"hold a charge" will draw SOME current from a charger.
Sounds like a bad ground.
Also a 6 year old battery is pushing the limit age-wise.I generally
use a battery 2-4 years here in the Midwest then if it's still good I
keep it charged and ready to back up the new one just in case.
Not necessarily... Just after our second child was born in 1991, I decided it
was time for a bigger car, and bought a 1984 Buick LeSabre (which we kept
for another ten years and 150K miles). Somewhere around '96 or '97, the
LeSabre needed a new battery. As I was taking the old one out, I got to
thinking that I didn't remember changing the battery in that car before -- but
I didn't think the car had a new battery when I bought it, either... hmmmm....
So I checked the date-of-manufacture code: October 1983.
AC-Delco. Original equipment. Guess which brand I bought for a replacement.
And we live in central Indiana, not exactly a kind environment for car
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
On Mar 27, 3:57 am, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller) wrote:
Wow! That's pretty impressive,and in a climate with temp extremes! My
Dad did'nt like people to run the radio because He wanted the battery
to last longer! Too strict for Me,,I'll run the radio on a jobsite(or
a party)for hours on end just starting occasionally to charge.I have
plug ins for scanner and radar detector and cellphone that
occasionally are forgotton and remain plugged in for days..
I've heard the drycell car batteries are worth the extra $s,,any
thoughts/expierience on that and will they perform better in sub-0
temps? A younger friend of My Sons' has a drycell battery that's about
6yo and He says it's going strong.
That may be part of your problem. Connect the negative clamp from the
charger DIRECTLY to the
battery negative post.v Same thing with the battery positive post and
the charger positive clamp.
Get the cables out of there. Get the cables off both the negative and
positive posts and clean both posts THOROUGHLY before charging.
While its charging, clean the insides of the cables thoroughly.
Unless its totally dry (possible, but not likel) or unless the nternal
battery connections are broken, it should show continuity though the
battery, and ake a partial charge
Some "sealed" batteries can be refilled with electrolyte / distilled
water. Some are not as "sealed" as you miht believe.
If an internal battery connection is broken, you have a boat anchor. A
broken internal connection can't be "cured".
Have you used a good DVM to test internal continuity within the battery
to see if there is a boken internal connection?
Of course, it would be nice to know the voltage of the battery
with the terminals unconnected, and the charger removed. Sounds
like it froze last winter. If the battery voltage is less than 8
volts, it's likely never going to come back from the dead.
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
Failure to draw charging current is commonly caused by (1) corroded
connections, (2) extremely low electrolyte level, (3) severe sulphation, or
(4) broken internal connection. A battery with any internal problem is in
danger of rupturing if a high current source such as jumper cables or a high
current charger is connected.
That battery is past its useful life and should be replaced.
Not necessarily. Put your charger on it's lowest setting and turn the park
lights on. If the battery is completely dead, as in dead as a doorknob,
sometimes chargers won't charge. Turning the park lights on gives it
something to do and sometimes gets the charging action going.
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