You could probably build a platform with legs or supports on each side to
span your current desk. No need to attach anything to the wall, a bonus if
you are renting.
A crude platform could be built out of 2x4's with a layer of plywood on
If you want something more attractive, you could use 3/4" birch plywood,
with 1x4's glued and nailed to the front and back edges. Sand, stain, and
poly and it'll look like a piece of furniture.
Of course, you may want to consider replacing those large, heavy CRT's with
flatscreen LCD's. Then you could put up just about any shelf to hold them.
Okay, new approach. What if I cut and threaded some 1/2 or maybe 3/4 or 1"
pipe and put together a kind of mini-scaffold? It would seem to be very
sturdy and not take up much space. I could fit piece of plywood to be the
shelf and it wouldn't have to be connected to the wall or ceiling. And I
could construct it pretty much without having to move the current desk. I
wonder how much weight those pipe would hold? I guess it all depends on the
spacing of the supports. Maybe there is some kind of foot, I mean the kind
that rests on the floor, that could be screwed into a fitting. I'm not sure
what would be the best way to interface with the vinyl floor.
Go to your local home store and look for something like this:
The shelves are adjustable in 1" increments and the uprights have feet
to protect the floor. Menards has cheap versions of these in sets, and
also the individual pieces if you want to customize. They are quick to
assemble and very strong.
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 11:34:15 -0800, "AKA gray asphalt"
2x3 posts, plywood, and either 2x4s with a notch for the plywood
or build-up rails of 1x boards are going to be easier to work with,
cheaper, and just as effective as anything you're going to make out
of pipe or more exotic materials. It doesn't really matter
that the surface is plywood, since it's going to be covered with
monitors and other assorted junk, anyway, so don't bother with
expensive furniture plywood, just use 1/2" BX and paint it.
DONT use sheetrock screws to hold the shelves to the posts,
It wouldn't be sturdy nor cheap. Buy a couple of cheap file
cabinets or buy/build a couple of saw-horses and throw the door on
top. Trust me, a solid-core door will take all you can throw at
it, and look a lot better than plywood.
Straight down? A *lot*. Twist it and you have a long lever to
pull the screws out' not much. If you're going to make a complete
frame out of threaded pipe, consider the twisties. I'ts not going
A door in top of an MDF box or 2-drawer filing cabinet on a scrap
of carpet really is the way to go.
In many ways, plywood is a better option than solid wood. The cross plys of
the plywood help reduce warping and make it stronger than solid wood of the
A lot of furniture and cabinetry is built with plywood. As long as you
cover the edges with banding or solid wood strips, there's no real
indication it is plywood.
Of course, if you wanted to build a fine quality piece of furniture, you
could joint solid boards and glue up a 3 foot wide panel, but I was under
the impression the original poster just wanted something quick and easy.
Another option would be to build a torsion panel with an internal structure
and a thin plywood skin on each side. Essentially the way a hollow core
door is built. They're light, but very strong.
I try/tend to re-purpose furniture for another cause. Some ends up in
the garage. One computer work station in the garage is a kitchen table
and it turns out the church pew (solid wood) makes a nice platform for
the monitor. Fits nicely on the table and it would hold two more
"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens
I think you're underestimating the weight.
My 19" monitors are 50 lbs, and my 21" is 80 lbs.
The best would be aircraft cable up to the ceiling to support the front
edge of the shelf.
Barring that, you'd want substantial diagonal braces above or below the
shelf. That much weight 3' out from the wall is going to put a lot of
torque onto the supports.
Yup, but it's worse than that. Most of the weight in a CRT
is at the front of the unit. That's where all the thick
glass is (and the supporting frame).
Personally, I'd forget any kind of cantelever design for 3
large CRT's. Take even more care if there will be children
around and/or you live in an earthquake zone.
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
Here's something that might be fun and functional...
You may need to read the Construction Instructions all the way through
before this makes sense. You may also want to beef up all
materials...we're just going for a design idea here.
- 2 each 1 x 4 hardwood stock, the same length as your shelf.
These are Cleats # 1 and # 2.
- 1 each 2 x "whatever width is required for your monitors" hardwood
This is your shelf.
- Aircraft cable or similar material - something strong enough to
support the weight
of the monitors and that will not stretch.
- Some type of anchoring device for the ends of the cable - this will
be explained later.
- Maybe some metal bushings - also explained later.
- 3/8" x 4" lag bolts (I'm not sure how many)
Attach Cleat # 1 to the wall, lagged into the studs, to support the
back edge of the hardwood shelf. Make sure your cleat is long enough
to hit studs at each end. Lag all interior studs also.
Drill 4 holes about 2 - 3 inches in from the front edge of your shelf -
1 near each end and the other 2 spaced so they will end up between your
monitors like so:
Hole Monitor Hole Monitor Hole
Rout a channel on the back of Cleat # 2 just large enough for the cable
but not enough to weaken the wood. Optionally (or maybe preferably)
rout the channel in the wall instead of the wood. - Keep reading!
Drill 4 holes in the center of Cleat # 2 at the same locations as the
holes in your shelf.
Starting under the left hand side of shelf, thread the cable up though
the hole in the shelf and into a hole near the end of Cleat # 2.
Position the cable in the routed channel in the back of the Cleat # 2
and run it out the 2nd hole in the cleat and down through the 2nd hole
in the shelf. Run it under the shelf to the 3rd hole, thread it up
through and into the 3rd hole in Cleat # 2. Position the cable in the
routed channel in the back of the Cleat # 2 and run it out the 4th hole
in the cleat and down through the 4th hole in the shelf.
Position Cleat # 2 high enough on the wall so that the cables are at a
45-degree angle and then lag the cleat into the studs. You may want to
use 2 lag bolts at each stud. Anchor the ends of the cable under the
shelf in a secure manner.
Can you picture this? Cleat # 1 supports the back of the shelf. Simple
enough. The cables are threaded through the shelf and Cleat # 2 to
support the front of the shelf. Assuming the anchors at the ends of the
cable are secure, the cable would have to pull though the wood and/or
the lags would have to pull out of the studs before the shelf could
drop. The cable would also help to prevent the shelf from sagging. You
may want to consider metal bushings in all the holes to prevent the
cables from damaging the wood.
Feel free to consider other uses for Cleat # 2. Add hooks for your
ball caps. Hang pictures from it. Turn it into a plate shelf for
photos or other mementos.
AKA gray asphalt wrote:
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