I have two salvaged doors which I would like to make into double doors
for a closet. So I have to build a new jamb for them, and I am
wondering how much clearance I should allow around each door and in
between the doors. I was thinking 1/8" everywhere, so I would make my
jamb 3/8" wider than the sum of the door widths. Does that sound
Also, what options are available for hardware to hold them in the
closed position while allowing them to operate independently? I don't
want to have any hardware in the floor. The only thing I could think
of was a ball catch at the top inside corner of each door, but I'm not
sure how well that would work.
Why couldn't you use just about any type of cabinet latch attached to
the upper jamb?
Magnetic, clip, etc.
I currently use heavy duty magnetic cabinet latches on my shed to keep
both doors "in the closed position while allowing them to operate
I guess my concern with a catch at the top of the door is that when
you are pulling on a handle at 36" above floor level, the 44" height
difference will cause the door to flex before the catch releases.
I've observed this sometimes when a door sticks in the jamb at the
top. Perhaps this can be avoided by using a catch with a sufficiently
low release force.
I'd ideally like a catch system for double doors that would operate by
turning the handle, like a normal door, but isn't so complicated as
the ones that require you to route out the edge of the door. Is there
anything like that? What do most people use for double doors?
Most people use a ball catch at the top. It is height-adjustable to allow
for different release forces. Additionally, rubbing just a smidge of
mineral oil usually helps the metal-on-metal with the strike plate.
How large are the doors ??? Are they solid doors or paneled doors ???
It sounds like you are worrying over a non-issue for a real door
What you describe is possible, but not using residential door
A "push-bar exit device, surface vertical rod, less bottom rod" would
exactly what you are asking/describing... You can obtain these with
knobs, levers or handle/thumb piece outside trims...
It is way overkill for a closet and you would need two of them, one
each door... But their installation doesn't require routing out the
of the door, only boring a hole through the door for the outside
All other parts of the lock unit will surface mount on the inside face
Again, its overkill for what you are seeking to do, but you asked if
was possible and no one responding so far has described this
Thanks for your response and for all of the other responses. It was
good to learn about the hardware you described. But as you say, it is
overkill for closet doors, so I will likely just use a quality ball
Two ways to work it...
1. Measure the thickness of the door from the center of the hinge pin to the
back; ditto the width, hinge pin center to edge. Calculate the hypotenuse
of those. That is the "width" of the door as it opens. Add a smidge to
2. Bevel the edge of the door back by 3 degrees or so thus decreasing the
opening width at the back so either can be opened without hitting the other.
Add whatever gap you want between them.
That's a good idea. I would want the closet doors to stay open if
opened, but some sort of "soft close" hinge would work well. It should
only activate when the door is almost closed, and then should ensure
the door would close fully and stay closed.
No. Maybe. Ask any journeyman finish carpenter what gaps should be and
he will quote you the ancient ''nickle and dime' rule: a dime
thickness at the hinge side, and a nickle thickness at the latch side.
That's what the young apprentices learn, but with older doors you may
have to bend the rules a bit.
Nickel and dime seems good> Why not use a magnetic latch to hold the
dfoors closed. If there is too much force to opening, a piece or two
of scotch tape over the fixed plate will reduce the effort needed to
open the doors. I haev that on several places in our house.
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