Briggs & Stratton 16 HP engine-points actuating rod not moving enough ?

Nov 06, 2005 7 Replies

Without having to take apart this engine- can someone please refresh my memory, as to what cam or eccentric actuates the points rod on a Briggs



16 HP engine, vertical cylinder ?

It's in a ' 72 Mont. Ward lawn tractor- it had intermittent then no spark- and the points are not opening/closing enough to run the engine. I've had a 9HP apart before, but that was a LONG time ago-



whatever makes the points actuating rod move in/out appears to be worn to the point the rod barely moves back and forth



also, do they make an electronic conversion to do away with points on this engine ?



thanks


There is a extra cam on the camshaft for the breaker points. I do believe that B&S has a Magnetron conversion for this engine. The age may be a problem though. Greg

thanks

so it's either the Magnetron, or a new cam, or regrind the cam

lots of work just to get the points to operate...

The cam is usually made of a harder material than anything that follows it. I doubht the cam needs to be reground...or replaced.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

well I got it running- turned out the locking nut on the points adjustment screw, needs to be snug against the block while adjusting- or it won't set the gap properly- once I snugged up the nut a bit, then set gap, it got spark back, started, and ran

other problems surfaced- the cylinder head was leaking compression from one bolt head- I removed the head, cleaned the surfaces, and reinstalled with sealer on the old gasket- fixed that.

now intermittently, the spark just goes away and the engine stalls- I believe this is a prime candidate for an electronic conversion- by what I'm hearning now, it requires the flywheel to be sent to Briggs and repolarized ? They do that for free, but shipping cost and time involved.

for how much I use this machine, maybe new points/condenser would do the trick

??? Bad spark plug wire? I've never heard of anyone replacing such a wire on a small engine, but...

Run it in the dark and make sure the spark isn't leaking out of the wire, at least in places you can see.

A friend had a car like that once. It was daytime, but not bright, and after I looked for a while, I saw a teeny spark between two adjacent sparkplug wires, or a wire and a bracket or the block. I forget.. Each time I saw the spark, the engine missed. But it didn't happen every cycle.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

The spark plug wire and coil are one unit on a Briggs- if you change the coil, the wire gets changed too.

I know they're one unit, but if the wire was leaking the spark and I didn't want to pay for the whole unit, I'd splice in a new wire to the stub of the old wire. I got the impression that money was a concern. Or maybe you could put a thick coating of silicone cenent.

I've used GE silicone cement, the thick clear, white, or black stuff, (I used clear or black) on the high voltage of a television to stop leakage, and it worked fine.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required