What is the process to insulate a interior wall with blow in
cellulose? I'd like to insulate an interior wall to deaden the noise
coming through it. I'm not sure if it's worth renting a machine just
to do a wall. Is there another way?
If you will be doing it from the inside,
drill a hole top and bottom of each stud space.
You might get away with only 1 hole for each...
Now, promise you won't laugh...
I had one wall to insulate and couldn't see
renting the machine, so.....we used an electric
leaf blower!! Yes!
Ran the blower outside the house with a hose into
the room. Fed the material right into the blower
intake by hand. Worked like a treat!
Humm, interesting. Now I have to ask, how did you attach the hose to
the leaf blower? Also when I blew insulation in my attic a few years
ago, we fed the insulation into the machine, which had a hopper. Then
it was "torn up" and then forced into the hose and viloa.
Also, if I remember correctly, the hose diameter on the machine I
rented was a few inches, I hope I can use a much smaller diamter hose.
I don't want to make large holes in the walls.
So I have to go from the bottom and top of the wall?
smith firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
We bored holes that were only 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" diam.
Adapted a small size hose to fit the blower outlet
using... Duct Tape!
The 2nd hole allows air to escape. Without the 2nd
hole, the fill in the wall will be only partial.
Watching my neighbor's house being insulated recently, they drilled holes 1/2
way up and near the top of each stud space. They blew it in the lower hole, then
When mine was done years ago, they just blew it in from the top.
In each case, they had a tapered nozzle at the end of the hose to match the hole
size (1" on mine, 1 1/4" on the neighbor's).
Don't think that will do much good.
The sound vibrates the outside wall. The outside wall vibrates the studs.
The studs vibrate the inside wall.
If you had an outside wall, no studs, and an inside wall, there wouldn't be
much sound trasmission at all.
Which brings to mind the fix: A free-standing additional wall, not connected
to the existing one.
Actually, cellulose is the best sound deadener and sound insulation for
wall cavities. It's mass and weight are the reasons, but it does work
to reduce sound transmission through the wall. True sound elimination
would require further steps, but to reduce it, cellulose is the way to go.
We use it in bathroom and utility room walls to help reduce sound
transmission and it works quite well. If you hear it with and without,
you will become a believer.
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