I've heard about scoring the glass on only one side and scoring it on both sides as the preferred way to cut/break glass. I've done it both ways. Anyone got any real insight into this matter????
H. R.(Bob) Hofmann
score it on one side. break apart by pulling down on each side of the cut with the cut on the top surface, or break on a sharp edged tabletop if the piece of glass is large and the part you're cutting off is not small.
I've never heard of scoring on both sides, only one side. Could two-sides be for extremely thick glass?
Any comments on scoring 1 side vs both sides before breaking??
Any comments on scoring 1 side vs both sides before breaking??
I should add that this particular piece of glass I am going to cut is double thickness from an old storm door. I know that the glass is NOT tempered.
"hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net" wrote in news:3c19cf98-ecf8- snipped-for-privacy@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:
Throw your mother in law into it. Get rid of both problems.
I should add that this particular piece of glass I am going to cut is double thickness from an old storm door. I know that the glass is NOT tempered.
Just scored one side along the equator of the 3 foot by 6 foot piece of glass, laid it on the ground over a 4 x 4 , with the score along one edge of the 4 x 4, turned around to do something else and crack - it broke perfectly along the score mark without me even touching it. Wish all my glass-breaking events went this well.
Probably only applicable to laminated safety glass which also requires careful torch application for the plastic layer.
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dI know because the other door of the pair of sliding glass doors had a nice neat crack running through it. Also, the doors were from about
40 years ago before the building codes were very strict. Thanks for your comments!!Bob Hofmann
Clean the glass. Clean it a second time. Drizzle a line of kerosene on the line. Score. The scoring should sound like a continuous ripping. Put the score on the edge of a table and give it a quick snap. You could tap the glass along the score line if the glass is thick. I have not ever tried scoring both sides--don't need to. Always, protect your eyes.
Wondered if someone would mention liquid. We always wet the score afterward with water, spit will do. Never heard of using kerosene. Most what I did was with glass tubing in the lab and it was unnecessary to score all around the tubing as water helped propagate the crack. With glass sheet you probably should score all the way - only one side. You break by pushing away from the crack. The crack will propagate to the other side. To avoid a sharp surface on cut glass in the lab, we would sand down with metal screen. A couple of quick passes would dull the cut glass.
How to Cut Glass
Clean off a portion of a table or workbench and make sure it's flat, then lay a damp rag over the area. The rag will cushion the glass, and the moisture will keep it from slipping.
Rest a piece of glass flat on the rag so that it is completely supported. Then clean the glass with any household glass cleaner.
Measure and mark the glass for your first cut line.
Line up a metal straightedge with your marked line, then shift it slightly as needed to account for the offset of the glass cutter's wheel.
If your glass cutter is not the self-oiling type, lubricate the cutting wheel with a drop of lightweight machine oil.
Now you're ready to score the glass. This creates a weakened area much like a fault line. You'll be able to snap the glass easily and cleanly along this line.
Secure the straightedge with duct tape. Hold the glass firmly in place, then draw the glass cutter along the straightedge with a firm, smooth stroke that goes from edge to edge. If you do this correctly you'll hear a subtle but steady scratching sound. You have one chance to do this right because glass should not be rescored.
Remove the straightedge, flip the glass over, and tap gently on the back side of the score line with the ball at the end of the glass cutter. This extends the weakened area through the thickness of the glass.
Now hang the glass over the edge of your table and tap it lightly to break it along the scored line.
Make your next cut in the same fashion. Then clean the glass again to remove any traces of cutting oil.
I have read instructions to dip cutter in kerosene .. have tried it, but noticed no difference. I have never seen instructions that advise cutting both sides, but it certainly makes sense for laminated glass.
If it's not tempered (can't be cut), and it's not laminated (more complicated to cut), then cutting on both sides is entirely a waste of time.
BTW, you've set a record. I've never responded to a post that had four prior posts quoted with three of them by the OP. Congratulations!
R
For almost all glass, you score one side only and quickly snap it. I suggest a wood dowel rod under the score line. Don't take you time after you score it as the glass "heals" and becomes harder to break. Don't double score, that will make for an uneven break. Don't use old glass. Yea, the stuff does get old and it will be harder to get good breaks.
Special cases apply to plate and tempered glass. Do some practice and learn to do it fast, it is much easier that way.
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Being old can make it more difficult to get a good break. How old is old?
Good Luck.
Good hints.
The kerosene works as a lubricant and coolant.
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