Just a thought.... You may want to do a little checking for termite damage
and/or evidence of specific compression of some wooden support structures.
You can sometimes tell where the compression or settling is taking place by
checking which doorway openings are getting out of square. Sometimes
doorway openings that run in one direction get out of square while those
that run perpendicular to that are not out of square. And, sometimes, the
settling is not in the actual foundation but instead is near the center of
the house in the area of a main support beam.
One of the reasons for checking this is, of course, to prevent further
termite damage if that is what is happening now. And another is that it may
be possible to add some supporting posts/jacks in the basement when a beam
is located -- and maybe even jack things back up a little to help straighten
out the doorways and prevent further problems.
In other words, the doorways getting out of square may be indicative of a
problem that you can fix while preventing further deterioration, and not
just "the house is still settling".
But, back to your original question -- I like the electric planer idea since
you have a lot of planing to do.
I was just thinking of another thing I did to fix a door. I jacked up
the door frame on one side and shimmed the bottom bringing it back into
square. I've actually used a hydraulic auto body ram to spread a wide
hallway in an office building when I had to install a storefront type
aluminum door and frame with access control. ^_^
Everyone is thinking of power tools, have you thought of rubbing a
little wax on the sticky surfaces or shimming the hinges. You can take
the screws out of one hinge and slip a piece of paper or two behind
it to alter the way the door fits. If you must, a very sharp wood chisel
can be used to remove a thin layer of wood from where the hinge
attaches. I have not only had to fit wooden doors but doors made of
metal mounted on metal. If you're concerned about the appearance of the
door and possible damage to it, you may have to take it down to do a
proper job on the door without knocking chips out of the edges. You
could also put a piece of 2X4 against the door frame and whack with a
BFH, Big Freaking Hammer a few times to gain a bit of clearance. ^_^
Sounds a bit agressive, to me.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
The last time I used my belt sander, it was to clean up the contacts on
a pair of size 4 Square D three phase starters for the open drive 60 ton
AC compressors at a bowling alley. ^_^
What the pros do:
Remove the door, take it outside (when possible). Place it on
sawhorses. Apply masking tape to both sides of the edge to be
surfaced. Obtain (buy or rent) a 3+" power planer. Bosch is great,
others may be as good. Usually less than $100 on sale at box stores,
sometimes on line (CPO). Mark the masking tape to the depth you want,
both sides. Make the cut with a light setting, continue to the line.
Remove masking tape and reinstall door. Elapsed time about 20 minutes,
less with a helper.
This advice based on been there, done that and learned from talented
subs hired to do that kind of work.
Using any power toll presupposes some expertise as well as practice
with it to become familiar with all operating aspects, including
safety matters like eye protection.
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