Bathroom Remodel

I can access it too, using explorer and norton. It's a standard tub. Whether it stays or goes depends on what condition the surface is in and we can't determine that from the pic. If it's not OK, I don't think I'd refinish it. Doing a complete remodel, I'd want a new one so I'm sure you're not going to have problems in a few years again.

Reply to
trader4
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re: "Rinsing in the shower after a bath is more a matter of squeamishness than necessity"

For that matter, bathing is more a matter of squeamishness than necessity.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Works OK on my iMac...

Joe

Reply to
Joe

The link worked fine for me (I'm using Windows XP, Microsoft Security Essentials, and Comodo).

You mentioned in a later post that you believe there are some good solutions out there to refinish or touch up a cast iron tub. My suggestion would be to stay away from trying any refinish techniques. If there are any defects or problem areas in the tub, replacing it will be a better idea in my opinion. Also, by replacing the tub, you will have access to all of the walls and all of the florr area, and connecting up the new plumbing will be easier. You will also have better access to the wiring issue that came up.

Cast iron tubs weigh a ton (or, more correctly, a couple of hundred pounds

+/-). But they are easy to get out. You use a sledge hammer and break them up. There are lots of
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videos to show how that's done. I watched the videos and did one and it was fun to do. Put the cast iron pieces out by the curb and scrap metal collectors will take it in a flash.

About the shower idea -- what's the plan in terms of the window? If you have a shower, the window will be in the middle of the shower area and you will have to figure out how to tile around it etc.

Any suggestions out there (I don't have any) for how "hibb" could or should deal with the window in the new shower/tub area?

Reply to
RogerT

Are we sure it's cast? Mine was steel and I basically got it out by myself, in one piece.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Here's an interesting way...you gotta love the safety glasses neatly perched on top of the guy's head.

At least he'll know where they are if he ever needs them!

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

re: "Any suggestions out there (I don't have any) for how "hibb" could or should deal with the window in the new shower/tub area?"

Sure...

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$s=hare$

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Yeah, OP, what's up with that? Fileave is a shaky site.

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better than that if you're going to post here.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

At the current price (here) of $185.00 a ton I would take the time to drop it off myself. :)

Colbyt

Reply to
Colbyt

Which is about the selling price for a used tub around here. A refinished one is a few hundred on up. Don't bust 'em up. The scrap gets sold to China and it comes back here as, well, scrap.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Give the tub to a local architectural / historical salvage store in your area. Or a Habitat Restore.

Get four linebackers to carry this monster down the stairs.

Reply to
Oren

I used to have that WOT application on my browser. I had to wonder if they based some of their ratings on data from users that were less than honest. Perhaps other sites trying to give their competition a bad reputation.

Still, tho. Now I recon I had better use something else.

Reply to
hibb

I have seen the WOT thing skewed by someone with a bone to pick, but that fileave site had a number of specific complaints, and not just privacy issues. Better safe than sorry.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

site.http://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/fileave.com>>> Do better than that if you're going to post here.

Yeah, that is what I figure. This machine is long overdue for reloading (or moving into the better machine sitting on the floor that also needs a fresh load), but recovering from a major infection or crash is a siginificant PITA. Not so much the 2-3 hours loading the software, but the days drilling around on the crashed drive recovering and sorting data, and tweaking all the program settings, etc. I keep meaning to buy an external drive, since I no longer have the patience to spool stuff off to CDs, but at the moment the past 2 years or so are basically not backed up.

I have enough PCs sitting around- I really ought to have one dedicated just to internet/usenet browsing, with no data I care about loaded on it. Image that to a spare drive, so when it gets infected, it is a matter of minutes to start over.

Reply to
aemeijers

Hi David,

If you're going to the trouble of gutting the bathroom, you might as well install a new modern steel tub. They're relatively inexpensive (under $200 at most home centers), and you'll get a new finish with a tub that is designed for modern fixtures. If it were a fancy clawfoot tub it might be different, but yours sounds like an old generic tub.

I'm sure you wouldn't want a shiny new bathroom with an old rusted and/or discolored tub. :)

The tub should mount directly to the studs, then the wall finish overlap the lip of the tub. You should attach a horizontal support around the tub area to support the underside edge of the tub. If the tub does not have a foam support pad built in, test fit the tub to make sure it fits, then pour a rough mortar bed to set the tub in. This will make the tub feel more solid, as well as providing a level base if the floor has any variations.

Also, you should use cement board or hardibacker behind the tile, NOT drywall. Drywall should not be used in a wet location like a bath/shower surround. As extra insurance, I recommend applying a waterproofing membrane like Kerdi to the backerboard before tiling. An extra expense now, but good insurance for the future.

Bathtubs are usually standard dimensions (5' being typical), so you probably won't have any issues. But, you can always shim out the studs if needed to get the exact space you need for a new tub.

You can special order tubs in other sizes, but it's probably cheaper to pick the closest standard size and shim out the studs as needed to make it fit.

Good luck,

Anthony

Reply to
HerHusband

Reply to
Michael B

See if there's a Habitat For Humanity Restore in your area. I needed a tub to replace one that was in less than wonderful condition. First, the sledge hammer kinda bounced. But when I used my old pick (pointed at one end) it put an excellent crack in it, and I just kept making more cracks and turned that old tub into pieces I could put in my pocket if I wanted. I went to the Restore, found a Jacuzzi-type tub, fibreglas, that may have never been used. It had been put out a month before for $250, so after the month it became $125. My wife would NEVER let us go back to a regular tub for baths, and this one is deep enough and so comfortable for me, too. There wasn't a pump, but I got one for $20, but I haven't put it in, I just shunted the water jet fittings because SWMBO prefers to take 2-hour soaking baths after her weight-training class. A pump makes things cool down quickly.

Really, you need to acquaint yourself with what's available out there.

Reply to
Michael B
++++++++++++++++++

When I did my tub smashing experience (for the first time), I used a heavy

16 pound sledge hammer and that worked. I also had a lighter sledge hammer and that did tend to bounce off. I also brought a pick with me, and like you, it did work at creating the initial cracks that are sometimes needed to get the whole tub break-up going. But, the 16 pound sledge hammer was enough on its own.
Reply to
RogerT

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