I hit the spell check and it changed EMT to MET, which is electrical
metallic tubing. Which is much heavier than you'd want for duct. Depot sells
standard steel 4 inch duct in three or four foot lengths, they also sell a
pretty nice smooth interior flex duct. I've seen plastic dryer duct used,
and as you indicated, condensation filled low, sagging areas with water
Back in time, when oil was real cheap, they made almost everything out
of steel. Most of that is still in use. Now that oil is real
expensive, they insist on making everything out of plastic (which is
made from oil). Your plastic ring tubing will probably be cheaper,
but you'll replace it every 5 years or so, and that will help waste
more oil and fill more landfills and in the end raise the price of oil
while wasting your time.
Do it right the first time. Use steel (as in round ducting / probably
4 inch diameter.)
Better still, use 4" thinwall PVC sewer pipe (without the holes punched into
the sides) you will find it very smooth inside, has all the fittings to make
clean bends, glues together to prevent leaks and will not rust from
condensation. Also because it is plastic it will not conduct the heat
through the walls causing additional condensation. If the pipe is a tight or
loose fit on the fan and/or the outside louver you can expand or contract
the diameter with a heat gun. To reduce the size heat it with a gear clamp
on it and tighten to make it fit an undersized hub end of the fan housing.
I'm also planning to install a panasonic fan in my bathroom. Venting thru
unheated attic to an outside wall. I'm thinking about using pvc pipe. I'm
also looking for a way to insulate it! If you come up with any ideas please
let me know.
Have you bought the fan yet? I found what look like pretty good prices at
www.rewci.com. They sell the fan you listed for $145 w/free shipping. Not
sure if thats a good price, as the fan I'm looking at is a different model.
I'm also planning to use a nice, push-button timer switch:
Again, if you get any good ideas or sources for insulating the 4" duct
please let me know.
I read in another post the suggestion of using PVC pipe as the
conduit, and gave that some thought. I think steel conduit would work
just as well as PVC.
The problem that I might have here is that this ranch type house has a
hip line roof, and there might not be enough room to angle the conduit
to the vent opening that is already located in the soffit area on the
I have been concentrating on using Owens-Corning Fiberglass Duct Wrap
as the insulating material, if I can easily obtain it w/o going crazy.
I think Type 75 in 4 inch thickness will be OK. However, I have not as
yet found where to buy and do not know pricing info.
eBay has a couple of sellers for the Panasonic model FV-08VQL3 that I
am keyed onto. Pricing is at about $142 with free shipping.
Thanks for the tip; very much appreciated since I was thinking that I
need a fixed timer for 20 mins or 30 mins. I will consider the
count-down timer shown at http://www.smarthome.com/4253.HTML .
I think that I must be careful of which model to select, because the
FV-08VQL3 fan (rated at 0.7 SONE) includes two fluorescent bulbs and a
socket for an incandescent night light. I don't need the night light,
so I wont bother with a separate switch for it. The count-down timer,
Leviton model 4254/4255-Ivory, will likely handle the fan motor and
the fluorescent bulb loads. Or, I might want to go with a separate
(normal) switch for the fluorescent load.
de ~ Vince ~
On the switch, in case you shop locally, the actual Leviton "Decora" number
is 612-6230M. The number I previously provided must the the Smarthome
catalog number of this switch. The Smarthome price beat what I could find
I forgot to mention that I found insulation that might work to cover
ducting, at Home Depot. It was in the duct area, near the foil tape and
such. Its foil backed sleeves of insulation for 6" ducts and smaller. Take
a look. Its about $5.40 for 5 ft.
Also thanks for the info on the duct wrap insulation. I'll check it out.
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