Need car headlight bulbs - where is a good cheap source locally?
They're like 25 bucks each at the Autozone parts stores. Walmart has them online for around 10 bucks each in sets.
Where do you get your headlight bulbs locally?
This is a general question but the exact bulbs needed are
9003 (one) 9007 (three) H7 (one)I'm not looking for the fancy stuff. Just the basics.
Bob's Auto on Park Street. Prices are gread and he had good inventory. Stop by and he'll help you out.
Not trying to be difficult, but I haven't needed bulb for about 15 years, when I decided to replace my normal bulbs with halogen, because they were brighter. But they burned out, almost the first ones that ever did.
I presume my 2005 car came with halogen bulbs but they must have improved how long they last.
What about Rock Auto, online. I've never looked at bulbs there, but people online praise it.
wrote on Tue, 23 Jul 2019 00:34:28 -0400 :
Thank you for the suggestion of Rock Auto where I use them and Carid as the best online sources by price for basic products.
In this case I wanted to buy the bulbs in the store where I figured out that Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, OSH, Walgreens and Target are not so good on price. All the auto parts stores were three times the price.
The right answer turns out to be Walmart which had them on sale for $4 each where each bulb was 3 and 4 times that price at the auto parts stores.
I was surprised the last place to go was the auto parts stores.
With some of the newer cars the headlight assembly is replaced as a module. The bulbs may last longer than the plastic, which gets frosted by UV and road grit. They're about $50 a pop for my car, plus a few magic moves to find all the mounts.
What car do you have that doesn't have replaceable bulbs (that are not LED)?
I was mistaken. The bulbs can be replaced although it's a major pain in the ass:
The tail lights are more accessible. I haven't had to replace them but I checked them out for splicing in a trailer light harness. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a T connector and the wires are a little delicate looking for a squeeze on connector.
If I ever have to buy another car I'll look for something from the mid'90s. That was the sweet spot for cars. FI, decent ignition systems, and not as much extraneous shit.
It would be worth buying a polishing kit. I bought a bottle of headlight cleaner and in no time I had headlights that were almost like new on a
15 year old car.If your car is a recent model, and has *bulb failure sensors*, it's highly likely you won't be able to splice in the wires at the rear. Adding a trailer bulb's resistance (or lack of it - bulbs in parallel and all that) direct into the wiring circuit without adding a special active trailer harness is going to cause you pain..
Considering recent cars, one thing I really don't like is touch screens.
Strip the wires a little and solder in the trailer wires. Wrap with silicone tape for the best finish.
Say you do it anyhow. It will only cause trouble when the trailer is plugged in, right? And most of the time for most people the trailer is not connected.
The easiest way is to add one of these;
Probably, but there's another factor -- that deer that took a ride on my hood a few years ago. Car runs, hood open, headlights point in the right direction so my ambition level to work on it is pretty low. If I have to remove all the plastic and the module just to replace the bulb, might as well do the modules.
Teach you grandmother to suck eggs. Stripping something inline that looks like 24 gauge wire while standing on my head is something I'll do when I absolutely have to.
AOC to the contrary there isn't a damn road to Australia. And, as I mentioned in the original post, if there was a neat plug'n'play solution available for that model the job would have been done a long time ago.
In theory the Yaris isn't supposed to be pulling a trailer, at least that's the story in the US. On the forums the Canadians say their owner manuals say a maximum of 500 pounds.
I don't like keyless entry, backup cameras, curb sensors, automated braking, and stability control that you can't turn off. There a a few other things too.
Well, actually, there are any number of universal solutions to get around the various issues, some elegant, others not so much.
If the vehicle is offered ex-factory with a towbar option, it is highly likely that the solution is built in already and there is a plug provided for the purpose. That is certainly the case for my friend's ML320 Benz - the wiring harness breakout point was already provided, and compensated for in the circuitry, but the actual point was *hidden* requiring removal of the rear bumper in order to access the hatch behind which the plug was located. The funny thing was that everyone was resorting to inelegant aftermarket solution not realising the solution was right under their noses.
As for the utility of towing a trailer behind a Yaris, I would suggest that it is not worthwhile given the difference between the tare weight of a minimum spec trailer and the maximum gross loading that the car is capable of towing.
That’s certainly the case with my hyundai getz, I got it fitted by the dealer when I bought the car new.
You'd be wrong, fine for a rubbish trailer, getting something too big to fit in the car, or moving house etc. I have done all those with mine.
Yeah, my F150 had a connector and the harness had a Tee fitting. Open the connector, put the Tee in place, and plug the harness into the Tee.
I've got a little flatbed trailer and the intent was to be able to transport something back from town if need be. For serious work I've got the F150.
Or I could make it clear the Yaris is not a girlie car;
I'd have to be careful that my balls didn't drag...
It doesn't give a price without entering a make and model, and the model I tried didn't return a price.
The only other issue I can think of is if the brakes and turn signals share the same filament, and the trailer wiring can end up connecting the left and right turn signals together. You don't want that. They sell a fancy device for that too, but I just used two tophat diodes, one for the left side and one for the right and everything was fine.
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