A friend of mine asked me what's it cost. Has a
two story frame house. Circuit panel in the cellar,
panel is only a few years old. Wants a transfer
switch, and power inlet.
What's available? Are they dificult to install?
What kind of prices?
On Tuesday, November 5, 2013 10:55:09 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Only three parts that could be more involved. One is running the wire
from the panel to the intlet, assuming he wants the intlet outside,
which is where I'd want it, unless it was a real bitch to do.
The other would be if there isn't a empty spot for an additional
double pole breaker. In that case you could possibly replace
some full size breakers with half-size, if they are available,
which I would think they would be for a new panel. Third part
is you probably have to splice some of the existing circuits
to free up the required slot at the top for the new breaker
Other than that, it's installing a slide lockout on the panel,
putting in the appropriate size breaker, mounting the inlet and
running the wire.
With the slide, first I'd look to see if one is available from
the manufacturer. That for sure is listed and will pass inspection.
There are aftermarket ones from Interlockkit that fit many panels.
I've seen folks say that inspectors passed them and didn't have
an issue, but some inspectors might.
Last time I looked at this, you were looking at around:
$150 for the slide lockout
$50 for the inlet
Don't forget the cost of the permits.
Go down to the local inspection office and talk face-to-face
with the inspector. Mine didn't like the slide lockout option.
That plus the cost of the permits/inspection killed the project.
Interesting that he didn't have any problem with putting a plug
on the gas furnace (clearly disallowed by code) so I could run it
from the generator.
You install a breaker to go to the generator. The lockout plate prevents
this breaker from being turned on if the main breaker going to the power
lines is on.
In effect a DPDT switch is created. The handles are just not connected.
Not connected, but "mechanically interlocked" so that both cannot be on
at the same time.
There are many approved interlock kits available, including ones from
the manufacturers of the panels themselves. They work very well and are
very cost effective for generators all the way up to 30KW (125A max
branch circuit breaker size).
Yes, but, they are soooooo nice. I built a house 5 years ago and they
put in an emergency panel. So, only a select set of breakers get
powered from the generator. This is ok, but I wish I had remembered the
mechanical interlock thing, when building. Here's a link to one of
them: http://www.interlockkit.com/ Yes they are overpriced for what
you get, but, especially on a retrofit, it is much easier and cheaper
than the alternative.
On Thursday, November 7, 2013 8:09:06 AM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
It gives you the flexibility to power anything you choose
in the house. IDK why anyone would want the subpanel approach,
unless the inspector won't approve the lockout method.
I think subpanel idea come from an automatic standby generator,
in which case it makes sense. But for a portable generator,
the slide lockout makes a lot more sense. Unless I guess you're
incapable of figuring out how to manage the load from the main
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