I have a large, unfinished attice, with ceiling height of ~ 10 feet
at the peak. Currently there is no insulation on the roof or side
walls. In the summer it is extremely hot, refrigerator like during the
Connecticut winters. I am sure the attic temps extremes adversely
effect the temps in our living area, the first two floors.
I would like to add insulation, but unsure how to proceed. Do I add
battt insulation; with or without a vapor barrier? Would it be
prudent to also add add a radiant barrier. Can I apply sheet rock over
the suggested insualtion, to have a "finished' room?
BTW I am new to this site, after I saw a link on another site. I am
sure impressed with the breadth of advise here - Great Find !!
The absolute most important thing to do is ensure that there is
insulation between the attic and your living space...VIZ: along the
floor of the attic.
Other than that, there should be plenty of vents in the roof
to allow heat to escape in the summer.
So, tell us a bit. Are you reading this on a
web page? Browser? please post a URL.
Maybe this helps:
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Attic ceiling insulation
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:31:35 -0500
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:45:53 -0500, Stormin Mormon
What the heck difference does it really make, Stormy??? You've got a
real bee in your bonnet about how the usenet is accessed.
As for the OP's question - IF you insulate the roof and side walls of
the attic, the vapor barrier goes on the "finished "side, and you need
ventilation on the "unfinished" side. if you line it out to use as
Otherwize, just make sure you have adequate insulation in the ceiling
of the upper story, and good ventilation in the attic. With the roof
shading the ceiling and protecting it from cold winds, and ventilated
to let heat and humidity out, the ceiling insulation has a bit less
work to do than the insulation in the roof would.
You COULD put radiant insulation on the bottom of the roof - it would
give you SOME advantage.
The only reason I would insulate the roof of the attic is if I wanted
to use it as "living space" - summer or winter. Otherwize I'd just
frame out the attiic floor and add another 8 inches of insulation and
lay down a plywood or chipboard floor if the area was to be used for
storage. (make sure any rewiring that needs to be done from the attic
is done FIRST!!!!!. - and seal the upper floor to prevent hot/moist
air from escaping into the attic.
If it was the same episode I watched a few months ago, they found the
remnants of a staircase, like maybe just the railing. They figured out that
the staircase was (originally) very narrow, something like 16" wide and had
a 180° turn in it.
Didn't they do kind of a holographic, computer simulated portrayal of what
the staircase must have looked like back when it was in service?
I gotta say that if I owned that house...no, wait...before I even _bought_
the house, I would have seen the 3rd floor window, gone up to the 2nd
floor, not found a 3rd floor and been curious. I would then have grabbed a
ladder and climbed up to find out what the window was for.
I find it hard to believe that the current owners, and the owner before
them, weren't curious about the window and never knew there was a third
floor. What did they think the window was doing there?
Stolen without permission from:
Ashley Fabian Neri: My mom and I love your show; we watch it almost every
time it is on! I am wondering the same as most people do on here, who
covers the expense of fixing what people have had messed up?
Mike: The show is paid for in a lot of different ways--really depending on
the situation. If the homeowners were lucky and actually have some of their
construction budget left, they kick in. My crew is paid for by the
television production--my company. And we get a lot of materials donated by
sponsors. We have the subtrades volunteering their time—and that’s worth a
lot. They are great people. If the homeowner has no money left, we find it
somewhere in the budget. It all works out in the end.
He might be, but my brother's 88 year old house (when he bought it)
is as the OP described. There was NO insualtion in the house. There
was no building code in effect when the house was built - and it was a
"well built" house at the time. Double brick construction, with well
over 10 feet fom the attic floor to the ridgepole, and a 12/12 pitch
roof. He insulated the roof and attic walls and drywalled the whole
attic, with a roughly 6 foot wide flat ceiling, crossventilated above
that, and troughers run from the soffits up to the vented ridge. It's
his wife's craft and sewing room and he has a drafting desk tucked
into the other end. Don't know if he can get to it any more or not!!!
On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 10:31:35 AM UTC-5, Dave C wrote:
The first thing that needs to be decided is if the attic
is going to be finished and made into a living space. That
determines where the insulation goes. Building codes also
apply to any such conversion, if it's allowed, required
means of egress, etc. Ten ft headroom at the peak isn't a lot.
You have to figure out how much usable space you get before
the headroom is gone, how low you can go by code, etc.
If it;s converted to living space, then the insulation
goes between the roof rafters, with a vapor barrier on the
side facing the living space, air baffles installed between
the rafters, under the roof deck, before the insulation goes
in to allow for airflow. Existing rafters may not allow for desired
insulation and may have to be built out using strips to
get increased depth.
If the attic is unfinished, then it's supposed to be cold
in winter, hot in summer. The insulation goes on the attic
bottom, between the ceiling joists. If you want to add more,
that can be done via a variety of methods, including
blowing in cellulose, which is probably the easiest.
Radiant barrier could also be stapled to the rafters, how
much that helps, is it worth it, questionable. Certainly
plenty of insulation over the ceiling joists is more important.
And proper ventilation of the attic, eg sufficient soffit vents
combined with ridge venting, making sure insulation doesn't block
the soffit vents, etc. is very important.
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