Are there any chemicals to help strip Minwax Spar from a pine pic table?

Getting rid of an old finish is a total PITA job, IMHO.

My comment about a belt sander was to use it to "break" the finish so that chemical strippers would have an easier job of getting the task finished.

I was going to mention a 4", right angle, sander; I have spent a lot of time with one equipped with 24 grit discs.

Does a great job of cleaning and shaping; however, using it is an acquired skill.

Just like a belt sander, it can totally destroy a surface, if you are not careful.

Learn to use it on scrap.

Since you are this far along, my suggestion is to keep that file handy or buy a carbide paint scraper.

Have fun.

Lew

I had a similar problem when I wanted to strip a table top of a botched job of Flecto Varathane. The mfgr wasn't very helpful ("Just sand it off", the say). I used a propane tourch with a flame spreader to soften the finish, then scraped it off with a gasket scraper (like a putty knife but thicker/stiffer). A heat gun would work too, but I don't have one. You have to be *very* careful and go slowly. Have a large wet towel handy in case you get things too hot. Go slowly and don't over heat. Mine was a fairly thick application and it came off in one layer.

W/ a 60 grit I had I used the angle grinder in parallel back forth passes (about 16"), once confident I could go back and do another fill-in random board pass on the spots I missed. I haven't got to the final 1/3 sheet sander yet but there may be an issue of having a 468 sided board, but its definitely fastest/easiest to get it off, the AG is the way to go. After the AG the $5 Richard paint scraper is great for the little bits. Its best to get a leg on top of the board to hold it down while dragging the scraper. Creates a lot of shavings when sharp, critical. I saw a carbide (1) tipped scraper at Home Depot for $25. Dremel sanding cylinder great for the umbrella holes. Yet to find oxalic acid or to Cl.