Here's a pic of hole by the drain of a ten year old tub,
replaced when retiled surround and the rest of the bath.
Was cleaning the tub yesterday when I was trying to remove
rust stains from around the drain from cracked porcelain,
when my finger went through the tub.
Anybody have any ideas on a way to repair this without
ripping out all the tile and replacing the tub?
You can buy a porcelain tub repair kit/epoxy. The important part is
preparation of the area. I would remove the ring and remove the
remaining rust. Then apply the epoxy, let sit and sand to shape. Then
> ;3293408']Here's a pic of hole by the drain of a ten year old tub,
> (http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/chairman57/media/P1010012.jpg.html )
If you told us you could get under the tub, that might open up some
better ideas as well.
I'm going to assume that you cannot get under the tub.
Bend a mascara brush to a 90 degree angle and insert that into the hole
to clean any dust off around the hole on the underside of the tub.
Drill two small holes in the middle of a piece of wood not much bigger
than a popsicle stick.
Put a loop of string through the holes in the wood.
Insert the wood through the hole and pull the string taut so that the
wood blocks most of the hole.
Loosen the string just enough to inject epoxy between the wood and the
underside of the tub with a dual plunger caulking gun. Inject epoxy on
both sides of the wood. Pull the string taut again and secure with some
duct tape and allow epoxy to cure.
Cut the string and remove it from the wood.
Clean the area around the hole well using a Q-tip dipped in oven
remove any soap residue on the tub around the drain. Rinse with water
and dry with a paper towel.
The the drain plug in the drain hole.
Now, mix up some more two part epoxy and spread it as best you can over
the hole and cracks near the tub drain.
Cover that new epoxy with Saran wrap or any cling wrap.
Dip your finger in some dish washing detergent and smooth the surface
of the epoxy under the cling wrap.
Allow the epoxy to cure overnight. In the morning, the cling wrap
should pull off the epoxy cleanly, but if it doesn't you can scrape any
cling wrap off the epoxy with your finger nail.
I had suggested this type repair to my son on a solid surface vanity
sink that he knocked a hole in. Don't know what he did but I would
include a fiberglass patch on the bottom applied as you suggest for
I agree with the others who said that the tub is basically a goner.
But, if you wanted to take a shot at trying some kind of repair, then you
may want to try what Nestork wrote. That's about the only option for a
repair in my opinion -- trying to get epoxy behind the hole as a start. Or,
if you can open up a ceiling below and access the tub, try it from
About the tile -- you can usually just remove the first layer of tile that
meets the tub, then take out the tub and replace it, then put a row of new
tile at the tub line that is a color that is compatible with the rest of the
tile, but not trying to match it exactly. It will look like a decorative
border around the top of the tub.
If it is a cast iron tub, check out YouTube videos about how to break a cast
iron tube with a sledge hammer.
And, as someone else suggested, it is always better to put a subject heading
such as "Repair hole in cast iron tub?" instead of something nondescriptive
like "Any bright ideas?" or "Help needed" etc.
Good luck and let us know what you decide to do or try.
When I replaced tub in our most used main bath room I had to remove only
bottom first row of tiles, cut the tub in half with Sawzall and removing
it was not too difficult. I
don't know how old the tub is, looking at the picture I'd say over all
is hard to check. I'd just bite a bullet and replace it to have a peace
of mind. I don't want major flooding when bottom fell out.....
yeah, I already knew the answer to my question before I posted, but I
thought maybe, just maybe there was a shot someone might have a "bright
oh well, mama gets to pick out some new tile and paint............she's
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