I need to store my car somewhere for at least 3 years. It is a 1964
Austin Healey 3000 and is about 12x5 in overall dimension. I don't
have a lot of money to spend (2 in college). I live in S. NH so snow
is a factor.
I was thinking of a lean-to style shed on the side of my garage. 3
sides with the doors in the end, maybe about 15 x 8 or so. How
difficult an undertaking is this? The floor could be deck like, or
even gravel that I could cover in plastic. No windows or anything
fancy. Any idea, very ballpark, what this would cost? $500, $1000,
$2000? It should have clapboards to match the house.
Is anything obviously wrong with using the current garage?
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."
Yes, we have our 2 daily drivers in there. Without getting into a long
discussion about it, suffice it to say due to out driveway plowing
situation we can't put them in the driveway even if we wanted to.
Moderate difficulty. A shed style is the easiest roof style to
construct. The detail where the shed meets the garage could make it
tricky, however. The interface with the garage clapboards will be bit
tricky since you will have to cut away enough garage siding to attach
the support for your shed roof. You will also have to have metal
flashing where the shed roof meets the side of the garage. So it's
How much it will cost depends on the exact details. You will save some
money since the garage will provide support for half the shed. What
type of foundation support you use on the remainder will affect the
cost a lot. The cheapest will be if you use a pole type construction
where you bury treated posts or poles directly in the ground. Any type
of concrete footing will add a lot to the cost.
Clapboard is an expensive type of siding. You will have to buy plywood
(or chip board) to attach clapboard to. That will add a lot. The
siding and plywood will be a large part of the cost of this shed. You
could save a lot by using a different type of siding. You could
concievably use plywood siding and then upgrade to clapboard later.
The type of door you use will affect the cost. If you buy a real
garage door that will drive up the price. If you use a site-built door
you will save some. This is something that could also be upgraded in
The type of roof will also affect the cost. Shingles will be expensive
because you will have to buy plywood. A metal roof will save money
because it does not require plywood to install.
better check with city on permits....
have you thought of renting cheap garage somewhere?
they show up occasionally for 25 bucks in less desireable places, but
if your not moving it inconvenience isnt a big problem
Because you want something that is relatively temporary, could you use
something like this:
Cheap, easy, and probably wouldn't need a permit.
If it's going to be sitting unused for three years,
take the tires off, drain all the fluids, remove the
battery, stuff it full of bagged rice or other
desicants, wrap it in plastic, like Permabag.com sells,
stick it in a crate, and bury it on a well-drained
If you expect to be able/willing to get at it
every six months or so for routine maintenance
and to drive it around the block, then
follow these directions:
Unless you have some future use for the garage/shed/barn,
I'd look into buying or renting a railroad shipping
container to park the thing in. A used one shouldn't be
more than $2K, delivered. (if your town will let you
do that at all.) If you *DO* have a future use in mind
for the outbuilding, then build to that use.
Cost depends on who's doing the work, and what your
wind/snow conditions are in your area. CLapboard
is expensive, though, so figure in the several thousand
The sensible thing to to would be to sell the damn thing,
but nobody really expects the owner of a 64 Austin Healey
to be sensible about it.
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