adhesives - 'sticking down' ceramic tile TO existing linoleum? "newtype" stuff?

acrylic modified thinset. you don't have to do anything to the linoleum, and you use normal grout. the linoleum will act as an antifracture barrier.

Reply to
Charles Spitzer
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Latex modified thinset.

Good adhesion of the lino is a must. Youi should have problems with this tile install if you use the modified t/s.

No 'special' grout required. Sanded grout for spaced jopints and unsanded for tight joints.

Reply to
G Henslee

One more thing. If it's a 'cushion' type liono, it has to be removed.

Reply to
G Henslee

Bullshit. Loose and curling lino areas need to be cut out.

Bullshit. The 'cementitious' product used (called thinset) is not designed to stiffen up loose lino.

Bullshit. I'm a pro and I don't need to justify anything. I and thousands of other setters have 'properly' installed millions of feet of ceramic over lino.

Based upon Ken's reply he is not a pro. Based upon your reply, you're a fucktard.

Reply to
G Henslee

G Henslee wrote: ....

Also, if the floor isn't truly flat you need to make it so...many/most old floors have some issues that could end up w/ pressure points that could cause a failure...

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

what type of adhesive is 'ordinarily' used these days to 'stick down' ceramic tile on TOP of linoleum? this is in a small residential kitchen and front hallway, each of those areas roughly 55 sq feet....

I already tested all over (both areas) with a toilet plunger, and the linoleum is "stuck down GOOD'n'TIGHT" everywhere to the slab, central areas included, wall TO wall, *NOT* just along the edges...

is the adhesive I'm seeking something similar to "liquid nails construction adhesive" or something? I'd like it to be spreadable with a normal tile adhesive "square notched" trowel....

also, is there some type of 'linoleum softener' or 'pre-primer' involved? plan is to grout -between- the tiles 'in the normal manner' afterward...is special grout involved too? or just using some type of 'additive' to everyday normal grout, or?

thanks for smartening me up some,

toolie

Reply to
dave

It's a floor. If the original one is down, use whatever sticks the ceramic down. Ceramic is heavy enough that it will flatten out any linoleum that is curling. The cement product you use to put the tile down will stiffen up anything that is loose. Just go with a bigger notch than recommended.

I've done a few this way and quite a few years later they still look like the day they were installed.

Pro's tend to need to justify their existence.

Reply to
Mark

I am not going to say it cannot be done, but I think you would be making a BIG mistake. If you figure how much your tile, grout and labor will cost to do this project, and then consider that it might all be wasted, I would not take the risk. Once ceramic tile is applied correctly, it will last for decades and you will probably never need to attend to it again.

If the job is done poorly, you will be pulling BOTH up in the near future. Good luck.

Reply to
Ken

Just because it is "stuck down GOOD'n'TIGHT" now, doesn't mean the lino will be so in the future. I have heard pros suggesting nailing down the lino every 8" before applying tile. Also, any loose or uneven areas should be removed. Finally, make sure that the floor/subfloor underneath is strong and stable.

Otherwise tiling over lino should go just fine, though if it were me doing my own job, I would probably remove it as a perfectionist.

Reply to
blueman

Really, why? Nevermind. Save yourself some embarassment.

You've 'heard' but you don't 'know' jack shit. It's a concrete slab genius.

You can't even read...

Reply to
G Henslee

Perhaps, but I'm sure even you can read the word ASSHOLE.

Reply to
blueman

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