I just bought a house and the house is cold. Neighbors suggested
adding insulation to the attic. I went up there to check it out
and there is insulation but it's matted down.
How much insulation should there be? The attic floor uses 2x6s. Should
the insulation be no more than 6" high or can it rise up over the 2x6s?
Keep in mind that I'm planning to cover the attic floor with plywood to use
it for storage. I've heard that it's bad to compress insulation so should I
put no more than 6" in since I know I'll be laying plywood over it?
Should I get faced or non-faced? Kraft or foil faced? The current
insulation has a kraft face facing down (against the 2nd floor ceiling).
Should I add non-faced or remove what's there and add brand new?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a question too along these lines.
In my new house(1950) the 2nd story attic has
blown insulation in it. I believe heat
is leaking out through there because the
wisconsin snow on my roof keeps melting
very quick in some spots. I want
to put rolled insulation up there too.
???faced ,unfaced,how thick ect ect
any suggestions would help
Blown in insulation settles and become less effective over
time and if you step on it it can change from R-whatever to
about R-4 at that spot and it doesn't recover. You can add
unfaced rolled insulation (which by the way recovers when
you step on it) to any depth you want. If you are in a cold
climate you should have a depth of 15 inches. The main
thing you need to watch is where you step so you don't fall
through and work from the far ends toward your access
point. And don't close off the air flow with your batts.
George Macomber wrote:
Cold house you mean turning up the thermostat wont help? You may have a
Where do you live , what zone , temp lows and highs ? Owens Corning
and Johns Manville have good sites with R recomendations as does EPA .
6 inch fiberglass is apx R 21 in my mind not sufficent for even Fla
Min Chgo area Zone 5 is r 35 and thats an old standard minimum .
R 50 - 60 - 80 are common and used as most heat loss is up. Storage,
reconsider unless you live where its warm . Insulate first.
I live in Nassau County, Long Island, NY - the western end right near Queens.
It's not usually very cold but it has been for the past 3 weeks.
Usual highs are about 35 to 40 and lows are 25 to 30. Of course, this
winter is not usual.
I have 3 zone gas-fired hot water baseboard. Only the bedroom zone
gets cold. It can take 3 to 4 hours to heat from 65 to 69. The thermostat
is in a hallway. There's some baseboard around the bend (the hall turns
90 degrees) and the bedrooms surround the thermostat. Each bedroom has a
full wall of baseboard. The other 2 zones take much less time to heat
the same 4 degrees - maybe an hour maximum.
The radiators all get hot so I don't think anything's wrong with the
boiler. But I wonder if the thermostat is bad. I noticed the other day
that it said 67 when it was programmed for 69. I walked away and passed
by again 1 minute later and it read 69. I can't believe the temp in the
hall went up 2 degrees in one minute.
This thermostat also controls the Central Air. It's a fairly new thermostat -
Honeywell Magicstat 32.
As far as the attic goes, would it make sense to insulate the attic floor
only till the top of the joists so I can put plywood down and then make up
the difference by insulating the roof rafters? The attic would then be
completely surrounded by insulation. Would this cause problems like moisture?
Of course, I'd leave the area over eaves clear so the air can circulate.
There's also an attic fan with 2 vent stacks.
email@example.com (m Ransley) wrote in message
Jeff I'm about 20 miles East of you.
I wonder if your hall t'stat for the bedroom zone isn't reacting to the heat
from the rest of the house instead of the heat in the bedrooms. Usually a
bedroom "zone" has a stat inside the largest bedroom.
Also, if there is a strip of baseboard in the hall the stat is located in. it
might shut the stat off immediatley after it calls for heat because the
baseboard is too close to the stat, tricking it into thinking the whole zone is
satisfied when in fact only the hallway got warm while the bedrooms remain
If the baseboard is tricking the thermostat into thinking the whole
is satisfied, then the current temperature would read 69 when it's set
It's not. Here's my program for that zone. 11:30 at night, it drops
to 65 degrees. Then at 4:50AM, it goes back up to 69. I checked the
thermostat before I left the house this morning. At 7:15, it still
showed a temp of 65.
This was almost 2.5 hours after it was supposed to go back up to 69.
The radiators all get hot so again, I don't think it's a boiler
Do you think the thermostat is bad? As I said earlier, it's
new. It's a Honeywell C3200 Magicstat 32. I'm running it on a hot
gas system with 3 zones. I have no idea if I have 2 wire or 3 wire
How can I test the thermostat without replacing it?
firstname.lastname@example.org (HA HA Budys Here) wrote in message
As always you need proper ventilation coupled with proper insulation. This
link will provide you with the necessary R values needed. A WAG here, but I
would guess you will need more than 6". You will have to sort your
priorities of storage space or the continued loss of heat with potential
structural damage (moisture) problems. If it were me, I would consider a
shed for storage and get your insulation up to par.
Owens has a attic blanket R-25 that can go over existing insulation, you
will have to determine if this will fit the bill or possibly blown
insulation. You do not want an additional vapor barrier on the new
insulation, one vapor barrier (as existing) against the living space.
If you really want to put down plywood for storage then your going to have
to add 2x8 or 2x10 to the side of your rafters. I have 12 inches of blown
in my attic and I live in Phoenix. Insulation is worthless if compressed or
on some types if it is becomes wet.
Forget the storage space, and put in at least 8 more inches depending on
where you live snow country, maybe more. Call a couple of contractors and
see what they recommend.
On 26 Jan 2004 11:26:44 -0800, email@example.com (JAG) wrote:
The more insulation, the better. Of course there's a practical limit.
It can rise above the 2x6's (mine does). Do not compress the
insulation. It will lose some R value if compressed. The ply you
place down will help the insulation too, provided you don't compress
what is there. Use non-faced insulation over existing insulation.
There should be only one facing, and the facing should point toward
(face) the occupied space. Don't forget about the cardboard or
styrofoam "chimneys" for proper ventilation in your attic--very
does that miraflex "encased" stuff count as "non-faced"?
the sadsacks that did my attic put it in upside down.
I can't seem to find anyone willing to go up there and flip it over, add
more where they missed spots, and then overlay (perpendicularly) some
R25. The few insulation companies I called said the job is "too small".
I'm on the verge of doing it myself, although I know it's gonna be a
huge pain, and no fun....
No sure. I added the Pink Panther No-Itch stuff which has holes all
over the batts which are encased in plastic. I guess its the plastic
that helps (not eliminate) the itch factor.
Yeah, it's not a fun job. Tackle the job on a cool day, and wear all
the protective clothing. If you can get a Tyvek "space jump suit"
that would be ideal. Wear a mask too. While you're up there, caulk
any opening you might find around light fixtures, pipes, vents, etc.
My over insulation job took about a half a day.
What do these "chimneys" do? Are they the vented pieces that go over
the eaves to allow air to flow? What if I just leave the eaves
Also, as I asked in an earlier post: instead of putting more than
6" in the attic floor, can I just put the extra insulation in the
underside of the roof? This will encase the attic in insulation. Is
this something I don't want to do? Will it have a bad effect?
Also, if I put plywood down on the floor over 6" of uncompressed
insulation, would the plywood covering itself add any benefit?
You'd think the extra barrier between the house and attic would
help hold the heat or A/C in the house.
I'd really like to use the attic for boxes and stuff but not at the
expense of heating and cooling bills that are too high and a house that
doesn't properly hold the heat and A/C in.
Another consideration is that my walls are probably not insulated or
have minimal insulation. The house was built in 1964 but the siding
was redone in the past 10 years. There's probably rigid insulation under
the siding but I doubt there's anything in the walls. How much good
will all this insulation in the attic do if I'm losing heat thru the walls?
On 27 Jan 2004 06:38:28 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (JAG) wrote:
The chimneys or vents allow your attic to breathe. It extends the
life of your roof and helps prevent ice damming, mold, and moisture
buildup. You can leave the eaves clear, but the chimneys allow you to
do a better insulation job.
Not something you want to do, unless your attic is living space.
Plywood, or wood for that matter, is a good insulator. But by
weight-volume not so good (for an attic).
Usually, most heat loss is through the roof. You could have an
infrared picture taken of your house to "see" where your home is
losing heat. This will tell you where to insulate, and where not to
insulate. Well worth the cost if you plan to stay in the house for
several years. There's quite a bit of heat loss through windows too.
email@example.com (JAG) wrote in message
You could check the Building Science Corporation web site for
insulation suggestions. The site has researched information, not
Have you checked leakage around windows and doors?
What about the condition of your heating equipment and the filters in
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