Easy insulation ideas

Hi,

My external 2x4 walls (Philly, PA) are currently open (from the inside) and I am about to put R13 insulation in them. Are there some additiona quick-an-easy things that I can do at this point to improve insulation. I'm thinking some reflective surfaces or something like that. Any ideas? I would hate to finish the wall only to realize I could have done something else easily.

Thanks,

Aaron

Reply to
Aaron Fude
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That would be hard to do without increasing the wall thickness.

An airtight taped plastic film vapor barrier would help.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Caulk, caulk, caulk. I like Great stuff at this point. If you can make a room dark- go in on a bright day and look for pinholes. If you've got some wind- find air leaks with a candle flame.

Your goal is to make each stud cavity a separate dead-air space.

Then I like to use unfaced insulation and cover the entire wall with a foil barrier. I used to always use a foil faced kraft type paper about 36 inches wide. Run it horizontally & tape the seams.

Last time I used a foil-faced bubble wrap stuff. It came in 16 & 24 inch widths and overlapped on the studs. It was expensive- but my theory on insulation is that it pays for itself in both comfort and $$.

And don't forget to use tape around outlets and insulate behind them. [I use 1"styrofoam behind switches and outlets.] And use those little pads under switch and outlet covers.

Do not compress the insulation.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

Now that walls are open you have options, fiberglass when it gets cold looses a major amount of R value, maybe 20- 30% below zero, Cellulose I have read actualy stays the same or gets better, and foam not only insulates but seals out air infiltration, but there are foams that go from R3-R7. Ive heard of a cellulose with glue added, you get it wet and it cures in place and wont settle. Best would be foam, but I would at least think about a final sheet of the R7 foam with foil radiant barrier, or some radiant barrler at least, R 13 with air leaking is not much at all, and im sure at near zero at least the outer portion of the wall will be cold lowering that R13. An up to date way is Foam with 2x6 for near R 40.

Reply to
ransley

Totally seal the boards with caulk. Use 50 tubes of caulk if necessary. If the wall is plank boards, caulk between each board. If plywood, then just around 2 x 4's where they meet the plywood.

Cold air can come through these cracks and come out through an electrical outlet. Seal it air tight! Well worth the trouble.

Reply to
Bill

Hi,

This is actually a stone house so no plywood.

When you guys say "foam" what exactly are you talking about. Can I find it at Home Depot? A link would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

Reply to
Jennifer Eden

You have a stone house that's open from the outside? I am having trouble picturing it. Assuming you're undergoing some kind of renovation, your best bet may be to get an insulation contractor out to tell you what your options are.

You can get rigid foam (polystyrene) panels at the home center. There is also foam in a can like Cool Whip for small cracks, etc. You can also buy foam in tanks and spray it. But that's usually not done by DIYers.

Go with a pro.

Reply to
Perry Aynum

They used to sell it in 20lb propane tanks at HD or menards but I have no idea of the R value or if its the stuff that expands alot like great stuff, id google and call contractors for bids, there are different types from R 3.5 to R 7.2 per inch so you need to ask questions and verify what is used.

Reply to
ransley

Aaron Fude wrote in news:b5d9aa1c-15be-4fa9-a994- snipped-for-privacy@q30g2000prq.googlegroups.com:

You don't say why they are open but it certainly would be a good time to do things like add outlets, wiring for audio, security, lighting, central vac, CATV etc.

Reply to
Red Green

Buy a bunch of 2X2 lumber and nail it to the 2X4s, effectively making a 2X6 wall - then insulate accordingly - sprayed in place urethane foam is about as good as you can get.

Reply to
clare

It would be professionally installed - it is a 2 part mixture and goes on hot (or warm - it heats as the 2 parts react)

Reply to
clare

I hope you're going to be nice, and remind him the vapor barrier goes on the heated side of the insulation.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Dear Jennifer, Mr. Fudd sounds like a handy guy to have around. Please show him this:

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Scroll up a couple messages. Open from the _____________.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Unless there is already a vapor barrier underneath where the insulation will go. You don't want to let two of them trap moisture.

Reply to
Twayne

I bought lots of red Great Stuff Pro for $1.25/can from Home Depot. It requires a $40 applicator, and it was near the expiration date.

If so, you might glue studs on 2' centers to the outside with foam from a can, then add fiberglass insulation, with some sort of siding over that.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

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