I have a number of window AC units I need to cover to stop the drafts. I
have a few covered outside with the standard covers that keep the snow out
of the grates, and slows, but do not stop the drafts. Others are covered on
the inside with tape and plastic, but again, does not really do much. Does
anybody have any suggestions for a more effective method of sealing up
window AC units?
When I had window units, I removed them in the winter and closed the
Kinda like Christmas light. Put them up before Christmas and remove them
afterwards, unless you would leave them out all year, at least they
won't waste heat..
As other have posted removal is best but not always possible. Here is what
the fall routine used to be at my grand-parents house.
Secure the outside cover as tightly as possible, unplug the unit, remove
the interior grill and stuff a bunch of old towels into all the openings.
Cover the interior grill with plastic usually by folding the plastic over
and snapping it back in place.
Place a note on the unit or the unplugged power cord about the towels. Old
folks and even young ones forget.
Wasn't perfect but it served them well for about 20 years.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
Not so easy for everyone to do that. Have you checked the weight of a
14,000 Btu window unit? Do you think every homeowner is capable of crying
I take out two of mine, but the third has been in for five years now. I do
take the front cover off, put a plastic bag over the opening, then replace
the cover. Seals well enough.
On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 18:03:06 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
6 10,000 to 14,000 Btu units and about 8 5-8k units from 1st to 4th floor.
No double hung, all hopper permanently removed (only way to replace is to
replace the entire window and frame) and replaced w/permanent installed
window units. It took about 2 hours to replace 1 small unit.
Remove all the units, put in energy efficient windows, install central
air, apply for all the tax credits you can, and bank the cash for when
income taxes go up in 2011 and 12.
Sure, the initial outlay will be high, but the payback period has to
be pretty short considering all of those inefficient-in-the-summer and
A guy I know in the appliance repair business says he just loves those
outside covers! One way or another rain or snow gets in the unit but it
doesn't have the air circulation to dry it out again. Rust and
corrosion in all kinds of places there normally isn't any. The insides
get cold overnight then the sun hits the cover and the moisture
condenses all over the place. Lots of extra work for him! And by the
way, he was talking about the ones that were built into the wall, take
the window units out for the winter.
Why do you think they make such a point about car covers being
'breathable' these days? They can only shrink-wrap boats because they
are plastic. Anything metal inside a plastic bag, that is subject to
temp and humidity swings, WILL rot and rust.
In OP's case, with the the thru-wall (real or converted window units?),
I'd make air-tight lids for the inside to stop drafts, and treat the
units as expendable, and just plan on replacing them every 7-10 years.
That is what motels do. Make sure the weep holes are unplugged, and the
unit has the right slope so no condensation ponds build up inside.
They make (or you can make) insulated covers that tightly connect to the
outside wall. Plastic doesn't stop the cold, maybe the wind sometimes.
You need good, at least 4 inch thick, covers insulated with R12
insulation and a tight connection against the siding or window molding.
Some people even build an insulated box around them that has a door to
open when they are operating. It might be worth the investment to
install centralized air conditioning instead.
On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 09:56:37 -0500, Van Chocstraw wrote:
It would take several centralized ac units to do this, minimum of 8 units,
2 per floor, in just one of the buildings, and another in the other
building, and then duct work for all those installed, and ceiling repairs,
probably about $50,000 worth of work.
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