We are putting light bulbs on a large outside tree in a city park. We have six 100 foot strings of 100 C-9 lights. We have two 20 amp GFI circuits available. I plan to put 300 lights on each circuit. My math shows 2300 watts available and C-9 bulbs use 7 watts. This comes to
2100 watts. I will use 12 guage extension cords. The light strings and bulbs are commercial grade. This all looks good on paper, but I am worried because there is not much room for real world error. Does anybody have experience with this many lights? Wasn't there a movie about a guy causing a large scale blackout when he threw the switch on his house decorations? I don't want to be that guy. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks, Gus
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B
buffalobill
G
gfretwell
The normal rule is you don't put a load greater than 80% of circuit capacirty itf it will be on longer than 3 hours. Christmas is usually when the NEC goes on vacation though. If you spread these out across 6 cords, plugged into the receptacles directly I don't really see a huge problem thouigh since, technically it is a
700w load and a 1400w load on each, not a 2100w load. The circuit itself should take it.
J
John Grabowski
Fortunately circuit breakers do not take holidays off. They are only rated for a maximum of 80% continuous load of 3 hours or more. Depending on the age, quality, and condition of the circuit breakers you may not get them to stay on for that long. That's about 16 amps for a 20 amp circuit.
M
Mark Lloyd
I think I remember that from "National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation" and the blackout ended when someone at the power plant threw a switch labeled "Emergency Nuclear Power".
That was followed by someone saying "Don't look directly at the house".
I have used 300 around my house, but that was divided among 3 circuits (shared with other lights). I consider the load to be 6A per 100. That's a little safety margin.
18A load from lights might be too high for one circuit, considering the extra current drawn by lights when they're cold.
G
gus
G
gfretwell
I don't know of any modern name brand breaker that will not hold 100% of the rated amps ... if you can believe the manufacturer ratings
D
Don Klipstein
First problem I found - C9 bulbs consume more than 7 watts, and I have the impression of traditionaly 10 watts!
I would allow for 10 watts per C9 bulb!
- Don Klipstein (Jr), ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
H
hallerb
Mark Lloyd wrote:I hel;ped my neighbor a griswald type a few years ago. He was using his main plus a sub panel drawing over 120 amps. We had to balance the loads since breakers were tripping.
He got a near 1000 buck electric bill and now does nearly nothing.
He had made the news and created a traffic problem but I miss it.
He offered to do it again but power it from my home...
He literally lit up the neighborhood!
G
gfretwell
I was really thinking "9" in C-9 was the watts but the way they rate things these days I wouldn't bet on anything. I doubt the quality control is that precise to start with. The safest bet is 3 circuits if you can come up with another 20 amps somewhere.
H
hallerb
Dim them slightly for much longer life.................
G
gus
D
Don Klipstein
C9 is a designation of bulb style/shape and diameter, and not wattage.
C means "candle flame shape". The "9" means maximum overall diameter, in 1/8ths of an inch (meaning 1.125 inches).
C9, A19 and things along these refer to bulb shape/diameter.
There is a letter designation for bulb shape, and a number designation of bulb diameter in 1/8's of an inch.
A has 2 stories behind it, 1 saying "arbitrary" and 1 meaning "average". A lingering story is that "average" is between "PS" (see below) and "S" (see below).
B is supposedly "Blister", but some sort of oval shape.
C means "candle flame" shape.
E means ellipsoidal.
F means a flame shape - maybe more bottom-fat than C.
G means globular/spherical.
GTL means an incandescent penlight bulb having a short tube protruding from a spherical bulb with the short tube having a lens.
K is some specific reflectorized bulb design that I sense as being good for more compact incandescents.
PAR means "Parabolic Aluminized Reflector" - traditionally a narrower beam spotlight.
PS is "pearshape" - usually a higher wattage bulb that has a tubular "neck" between the base and the "main bulb portion".
R means "reflectorized bulb" - usually a floodlight or spotlight design.
S is a shape more common for some automotive types of bulbs and some more ancient designs of bulbs - "S" means "straight-sided" - like an "ice cream cone".
T means any of a significant variety of tubular shapes, for both "single-end" and "double end" lightbulbs! May include some Philips ones from production lines previously owned by Westinghouse, as well as whatever else (bigtime available) is "T-bulb"!
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
A
Art Todesco
The C9 Christmas lamps used to be 9 or
10 watts, however, > >
D
Doug Miller
For what it's worth, that's 15.98 amps at 120 volts, or right at the 80% of the circuit rating that you were told was the limit, several posts ago...
S
Steve Barker LT
There is a reason they're called c NINE. They are 9w each. duh.
S
Steve Barker LT
uh huh. ok, pile 'em on and see.
D
Doug Miller
Yeah, you would think that -- but you would be wrong.
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C9 simply specifies the shape and size of the glass bulb.
M
Mark Lloyd
With the ones I measured, it was very close to 7W. However, I did notice a significant variation between bulbs, so 10W isn't too unlikely.
M
Mark Lloyd
Or use C7 bulbs, which are closer to 5W.
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