4-way switch

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot. If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4 to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

What do you mean by energized? The 2 wires from one 3 way switch should be on L1 and 3 and the 2 wires from the other 3 way should be on L2 and L4.

With the switch disconnected it will have conection between 1 and 4 in one position and 2 and 3 in the other.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1 or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

This is not what I observed. The resistance between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position. L3 is always hot, L1 and L4 is hot depends on the switch position.

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other. So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be able to see farther back where the original color shows. That will help you make your drawing.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

Okay so it's you, your camel, and two goats. Is that it?

Sure sounds like a 3 way switch to me.

you appear to have a 3 way switch

He "appears" to have a 3 way switch, and in current reality it truly is but his 4 way switch has an L4 terminal that "lost it's way". Buy a new one and kill this silly thread.

If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3, there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand things.

Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way is DPDT.

Not in any normal wiring scenario and certainly not for the last few NEC cycles. If it is a switch loop, you will be bringing the hot along for the ride and if it is wired as a straight line run you are bringing the neutral along (code now). The only way you could do that with 2 wire is to make a switch loop to the 4 way and back from a 3 way. That is not the typical way it is done and not code compliant now.

With one side cross connected.

Yes, I guess it's not DPDT, it's a crossover arrangement where the two on one side get connected straight through with switch in one position and crossed over if in the other position.