3 way switch wiring

Dan · 2007-09-13T18:59:27+00:00

I have a 2.5 car garage with an array of flourescent lights on the ceiling. There is one switch by the side door which turns the lights on. I want to add a 2nd switch on a wall about 30' away on the other side of the gargage (across the 2.5 bays). I'm clear on the wiring of the 3 way switches, bought 2 & tested them at the existing switch with clip leads, my question involves the proper way to run the wire across the garage to the new switch. The garage is drywalled. My plan is to run 14/3 w/ground romex behind the drywall to the existing switch box, replacing the current switch with a 3 way. At the ceiling above this box, the wire would exit the wall, and run across the surface of the ceiling. Since the joists run perpendicular to the course of the wire, it would be a pain routing the wire under the drywall. The wire would then enter the wall across the garage and run down behind the drywall to a box I will install there with the 2nd 3 way. Easiest thing would be to simply staple the wire to the ceiling using the proper fasteners. I can't imagine a scenario where this would be a hazard or problem, but I'm not sure it would be "code", which may be an issue if I sell the place. An alternative would be to run the wire through conduit as it passes out of/into the 2 walls, and where it crosses the ceiling, which of course would add expense & work. Anyone know if the staple approach would be a code issue?TIADan

3 way switch wiring

Sep 13, 2007 22 Replies

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Dan 18 years ago

Well I guess I should actually PRICE the material before griping about it! ;-) Was expeceting more like $1/foot. I have to pick up the wire, will look at the conduit options when I do. Thanks again for all the helpful replies.

Dan

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Tom Horne 18 years ago

The use of PVC conduit exposed inside a building is generally a violation of the building code. The "Smoke Contributed" rating of PVC is far too high for this kind of use. Metallic conduit or Electro Metallic Tubing using factory made bends is nearly as easy to work with and provides better protection to the conductors. I would think that the simplest way to do what the OP wants to do is to install an extension ring over the existing switch box and use a knock out in the extension ring to begin a run of EMT to a surface mount switch box on the other side of the garage. If the ceiling is smooth it will only take two box offsets and two ninety degree bends to route the EMT which should make for a fairly easy wire pull.

-- Tom Horne

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Terry 18 years ago

I know someone has suggested wiremold. I have used some plastic wiremold that just snaps together. I never had to buy any of it, but I don't think it could cost much.

I dont' see where it would be against code to just cut enough to go the length of the ceiling. You shouldn't even have to use any fittings.

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