230v service

Hi people,

Sorry I haven't been around to answer. I'm not ignoring anyone, we've been on vacation with my daughter's senior class and our heads are still buzzing. Just got in last night. The dog was sure we'd abandoned her and we've had about a foot of rain and ten feet of lightning and a tornado or two in the area this past week so we've got some cleaning up to do around here. No damage, thank God.

The longer these threads get the more difficult it is to make sense out of who's answering whom and to what question. There has been a lot of good and interesting information posted and I'm going to glean as much as I can from the posts and copy and paste them into a more permanent reference file for my future referance.

However, given the numerous times three phase has been explained to me in the past, both in classes and in impromptu training, and seeing the differing views of it here it's no wonder my brain rejected what I'd been told out of confusion long ago. I do remember the "wye" configuration and that there was a second type of configuration in some motors but I've forgotten that one.

I have retained a very vivid object lesson from long ago, however: NEVER check the resistance between two legs on a live 3 phase circuit!! It was toward the end of a long shift and I was trouble shooting a large dryer we had in the laundry of our hospital and I didn't switch from ohms to voltage on the little nickel and dime volt meter we had. Talk about a firecracker going off in your hand! That was tons of fun ....

I will double check the guage size on the wire since I had to open the wall up to trace it out to the breaker. I'm pretty sure it's at least a 10 ga. stranded wire.

I guess someone read my post about the voltage I was getting between the legs in the breaker box - ~243vac.

Re: "the fan" that seems to have a few people scratching their heads: I was in a hurry trying to type in as much detail as possible at the beginning of this thread. The fan I made reference to is the fan in the A/C unit itself. The stove is an old electric range in the house that runs off both legs supplied to the house and probably an early

60's vintage unit. No fan in it, just the A/C unit. I'd been guessing that the fan in the A/C unit was the only part that had actually been working since I thought the A/C unit had had a lower voltage supplied to it than it was rated or built for. I was also afraid that, due to the lower voltage, the compressor and other high voltage sections of the unit may have burned out but now I'm thinking the unit itself is fine so I'm going to replace the breaker set - and wire if I need to.

Thanks once again, Dana

Steve B. Wrote:

On Fri, 6 May 2005 14:29:01 +0100, DanaK > snipped-for-privacy@news.diybanter.com wrote:- > Yes, I'm in Texas and I strongly suspect 220v is how he wired the wall > plug. In the side panel of the A/C unit, however, it says 230v/208v. > Isn't this one leg of 3 phase?- > > The transformer at the street is fed from one leg of a three phase > service. This is standard in the united states. If your a/c unit is > marked 230v then your outlet was 230v (commonly called 220, 230 or > 240) or the a/c unit would have never worked. > > - > Since this is a "ranch house" the only > thing that is done to code is the A/C unit itself when it was made in > the factory. > - > The type of house has nothing to do with whether it meets code or not. > In most places the house has to meet the National Electric Code or > local code to get a certificate of occupancy when it was built. Older > houses, of course, won't meet current code without upgrades but any > new wiring you do has to meet the current codes. > > - > I have yet to find where this wiring is coming from so I can figure > out > what he's done and where the power to both legs come from. I hope I > don't have to tear up the wall to find out but it may take that. At > the very least I suspect I'm going to have to replace the A/C unit. > - > > The wirirng should come from a 220v double breaker in the panel and > run directly to the outlet. There is no reason to suspect a problem > with the a/c unit at this point. It requires 220v to work and you > don't have that so it won't work. Thats kind of like running the car > out of gas and saying you need a new one before you add more gas. > > A decent electrician can make sense of this and explain it to you in a > matter of minutes. Even if its a bad wire an electrician can put a > tracer on it and tell you exactly where the wire runs and where the > problem is. Why would you want to replace the a/c and tear out walls > to save a $50 charge for an hour of somebodys time?
Reply to
DanaK
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"DanaK" wrote

Where did you go? Hopefully it wasn't Aruba.......

Reply to
Dr. Hardcrab

Wow, that musta been disappointing. "well, that meter isn't going to be good for much anything any more".

My disappointing moment was an engine which a "helpful" neighbor had sprayed ether into the cylinder to start it. What he did was dry otu the cylinder wall, and sieze it up. I did get it freed up and started. then it threw a rod. Woulda been helpful if I'd given it a good squirt of outboard motor oil into the cylinder.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Just to let you know, I've replaced the pair of breakers that fed the A/C unit with a 30 amp pair. It appears that one of the old 20 amp pair had burned out or was not making a reliable connection. Also, I checked the wire to the plug and it is marked as awg 8 - 2 with a bare ground wire.

Now I've got to put the wall back together.

Thanks, Dana

DanaK Wrote:

Reply to
DanaK

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