(2): A/C ~10Kbtu/hr -- tries 10 or 20 times before compressor turns on.

You can install what is commonly called a "kick start" unit in the condenser control box. Most AC condensers don't have a start assist device from the factory although it's an option. It could be that your AC is trying to restart before the system pressures have time to equalize. An anti short cycle timer can solve that problem and also keep someone from playing around with the thermostat and slamming the compressor on and off. The time delay is usually set for 3-5 minutes.

TDD

Typically 10% or so voltage drop is too much. Try a different socket, might have to go and buy a good electric socket. May also help to wire brush the terminals on the plug. If you're electrically minded, you can also check the herm side of the dual capacitor, and see if it's got enough farads.

Enough *micro* farads.

My one window unit had a unique start up, and I always guessed it was for low voltage reasons. The fan would start about a second or so before the compressor. I always thought it should have been the other way around with the compressor starting first.

Oh crap, I just realized you are talking about a window unit! You can still install a kick-start, start assist device in the window unit. They are available for window units too. Another thing that's very important for a window AC is the quality of the electrical connections, the shape the plug and receptacle are in. Look closely at the plug and make sure it's not toasted. The receptacle can be a bit weak too from overheating which will result in a voltage drop when it's under load.

TDD

How can you tell he's talking about a window unit?

TDD

Got ya. Obvious now that you point it out. I agree, the cord/plug/ receptacle is the first place to look. People are always plugging those big window shakers into a wall outlet that is backstabbed and often near the end of a long 14 gauge run. Gets hot day one and goes downhill from there.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not that I'm going to try it, but what is the "herm" side?

And I didn't even know that AC's *had* capacitors!

How much is "enough"? How do you tell?

Thanks!

Well, same question? What's "enough" -- and how do you tell that there is or isn't enough (or too much) capacitance?

David

In article , jamesgangnc wrote: ... ...

Well, it is a window unit, a hell of a heavy one, perched

Sorry about not making that clear.

David

Years ago, I had an extra circuit put in for just that socket.

Yes, I'd better scrape off the male plug -- how to do the female part, I don't know -- and if one is cruddy, the other probably is too?

David

I test them with a Sencore capacitance/inductance meter. I have an older model like in this link.

The cheap hand held ones are next to useless.

Go to the store and buy a good 15 amp socket (figure about $2.50) and replace the socket.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not that I'm going to try it, but what is the "herm" side?

CY: Herm is short for "hermetic compressor".

And I didn't even know that AC's *had* capacitors!

CY: high tech, you know....

How much is "enough"? How do you tell?

CY: Should say on the side of the capacitor. Somtimes they get weak. Open, or shorted.

Thanks!

CY: Please remit $48.50 for professional advice.

You're not going to have the equipment to test a capacitor. Did you find the schematic inside it somewhere? If it just has a run capacitor you can try replacing it. They are fairly cheap. A local ac supply place will have one, take the old one with you.

I think you've got other issues though. How old is this unit?

Check the head pressure first. If it's under 100 PSI when it tries to start re-cap the condensing unit. Start/run compressor and fan (if it has one).

I'm pretty sure he does not have a set of gauges.

Old. Maybe 15 years old, maybe more.