I'd like to rehabilitate a 25" Tru-Cut commercial mower and would
appreciate advice on one obscure and one not-so-obscure issue.
The obscure issue is tires: The original solid tires are worn smooth
and don't have much traction. OEM tires are expensive (~$160) and it
seems likely that pneumatics would work better. The wheelwell space
allows a 10.5" by 5.5" tire, absolute maximum. 4.10/3.50x4 tubeless
pneumatics are cheap, but 4 by 3 inch rims with bolt mountings are
hard to come by. Worse yet, an offset of about 1.25 inches is needed
to center the tire in the wheelwell. Go-kart rims come close, but lack
the offset. One could butcher the hubs and add spacers, but new bolt
circles will have to be drilled. Anybody got a better idea? The existing
hubs are 1.75" pilot diameter with a 4 on 2.625 (that's 2 5/8" BC).
Dual flanges are 1.25" inch offset from the wheel well center.
The non-obscure issue is the engine. It's a Briggs & Stratton model
130232 with a scored cylinder bore and worn out valve guides. Still
runs, but seems to burn oil about like a two-stroke. The local shop
says replace it with a Honda GX160. That's probably what I'll do, but
would be interested in alternative endings.
Oh, one other thing: Does anybody know where Tru-Cut puts the model
and serial number? There's a label on the handle which reads "Snapper
Tru-Cut" and the engine code dates to 1972. It's not certain the engine
is original (the mower is red, the engine bronze colored) but it's been
said Snapper did own Tru-Cut in the early 1970's. I've been over the
machine rather carefully and haven't found a model or serial number.
Thanks for reading!
Well, yes and no. Lots of mowers come up, some with a resemblance.
However, all have chain guards. Mine not only has no guards, there
is no place to mount them. Seems a fair bet that it's quite a bit
older than those illustrated. Even the owner's manual downloaded from
Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment fails to match, reporting zerk fittings
not present on my machine. I've contacted Tru-Cut and Dolphin, so far no
Thanks for reading,
In the unlikely event anybody ever reads this I ended up moving the
the wheel hub flanges to use rims that were symmetric. The rims were
adapted from these:
with an o-ring and spacer added to provide a seal and a centering
boss. The mounting bolt circles were transferred from the existing
flanges, with cutouts to clear the clamp nuts.
Sealing the rim halves proved difficult. A better solution might
have been to use
rims, but interference between the hub bolt circles and the rim
bolt circles looks possible. At the light loads and slow speeds
involved it's probably not a showstopper but it is a complication.
Tires are Cheng Shin, found at
Labeled as eleven inch, they fit with about one-eighth inch of
radial clearance to the mower frame.
The front caster wheels were replaced with 100mm kickscooter
wheels (Razor-brand clones) using flanged bushings to go from
3/8" to 5/16" (8mm) axle bolts.
A Honda GX160 replaced the old B&S and is a joy to use. The rest
of the mower is in reasonable shape and promises many years of
service. The pneumatic tires are a decided improvement, much
smoother over bumps and softer on the grass. The scooter tires
on the front casters are a mixed bag: They turn wonderfully but
offer little flotation. On a mushy surface it would take care
to avoid making furrows
Hope this helps somebody,
Glad to be of service! As it worked out, the tires are so tight on the
rim halves that slippage isn't an issue. You could probably get away with
using inner tubes, even at less than twenty psi.
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