wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net... im not pushing this but found it interesting
--------------------------------------- 1 litre (U.S.=1 quart) of boiling water (hot tap water will also work but not quite as well)
5 tablespoons vinegar
6 tablespoons salt (regular table salt)
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons dishwasher(machine) detergent to make a gallon multiply by 4 ______________________________________________ Explanations Natural Weed Killers are simple substances with a direct and obvious action. They destroy plant life for a short period. They are substances encountered naturally but in small quantities. Their presence is well-known and normally not harmful. But when applied in larger doses the results are usually obvious in a very short time. As always these methods need due caution. But they act at the point they are used. After treatment their damaging effect is dissipated. Artificial Weed Killers (Herbicides) These are more complex 'man-made' materials with indirect and subtle activity. They have no natural occurrence. They effect the biochemical processes of growing plants from within. Examples of these are 2 4 D, Atrazine, Glyphosate, Clopyralid. They may be described as organic by chemists, but are banned in organic gardening. As they are not produced naturally, organisms are not adapted to their presence and we do not know the full effects of releasing them into the environment. They can work in tiny quantities. Many of these complex herbicides take time to act and likewise in nature their ill effects may not be immediately obvious. The chemical interactions are complex. It is impossible to design a thorough investigation cheaply, if at all. Scientists like to do specific experiments on one process at a time, but this approach only scrapes the surface. Sometimes the inactive components of a weed killer formulation (e.g. surfactants) pose more problems than the weed killer itself. Are we to study the effect on thousands of chemical processes and their interactions? Should we turn the whole earth into a laboratory? No, but especially not when there is a better solution. ___________________________________________ So let's take a look at the performance of Natural Weed Killers. Acid Weed Killers ACETIC ACID Vinegar is made of Acetic Acid along with other weak organic acids. It has become a popular 'cottage garden' alternative for those who dislike modern herbicides. It works by disrupting membranes and causing leakage of plant cells. The damage to plants appears rapidly and even quicker on hot days. Household Vinegar contains 5% acetic acid which may not be strong enough; 15-20% acetic acid solutions are more effective. Take care, as acid can damage you too, especially if it splashes the eye. Also, avoid industrial vinegars in the organic garden. In tests, PennState College of Agricultural Sciences found acetic acid gave over 90% control within 24 hours of application. Areas treated with a single application of 5% acetic acid gave 33% control 9 weeks later, but with 3 treatments of 20% acetic acid control remained above 90% even after 9 weeks. The soil can be acidified if drenched by acid treatment. Findings show that the weak organic acid lasts only a few days. But given the results I would like to see the results of sowings and plantings made at intervals following treatment. Penn State College don't compare the contribution of plant re-growth with weed seed germination. The acid is not around long enough to have any lasting effect on earthworms, soil invertebrates or organic matter breakdown. The good news is that it won't cause any lasting or insidious harm to pets or children. Remember to avoid splashes (especially in eyes) and wash off immediately. It can kill Canadian Thistle, Clover, Dandelion, Foxtail, Ivy Leaf, Milkweed, Pigweed, Poison Hemlock, Ragweed, Quack grass, Bluegrass, plus mosses, liverworts and more. However it is not selective and harms all the plants it touches. FATTY ACIDS These work essentially in the same way as acetic acid. Of the 2 I estimate that fatty acids have the edge. I'm guessing that they are less harmful, that their soapy properties aid uptake but reduce spreading in the soil. Obviously you can't use these when and where you are growing. So it's probably best confined to spot treatments, perhaps when you need extra help with weed control and to avoid the seriously nasty herbicides. Remember, if you burn a hole in the lawn with these treatments it is important to fill the empty space as soon as possible. Sow seed and promote strong thick re-growth with the help of organic fertilizers. If your lawn becomes patchy it will become weedier. Always prevent weed seeds being distributed. Salt Weed Killers A spoon full of salt will kill Dandelions and the like. Salt draws water out of cells to leave them dry, and salty soils kill plant roots. So target its application and use sparingly. Excess salt poisons the soil. Many important organisms: bacteria, fungi, earthworms; will be killed by salinity. It will eventually wash out, even so I would not use it on land intended for cultivating plants. For some gardeners it is an option to consider with drives and gravel areas where plants are not intended to grow and where run off can be contained. Remember, salt will not biodegrade, so regular use will eventually be detrimental to surrounding areas.
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just pull mine but I'm old fashion.
Under no circumstances would I ever use Roundup, Weed B Gone, Weed and Feed or any of that other crap. Even under the best of circumstances it is irresponsible and they usually causes more problems than they solve.
A good place for anyone thinking of using man made chemical on their yard to get an education:
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sites of interest:
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foolish human race
per monsanto's own words
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well......
pull your weeds and use soil conditioner
I am consistantly amazed by the lack of responsibility of some of the members of this ng. Go ahead and flame. I consider it an honor.
Jim Threadgill Austin TX