I have a 2 ton heat pump with a 21/2 ton indoor coil, because of a water
leak and duct work seperating and think the AC didn't work I had lots of
work done on the AC before I found out the ducts needed repair. ow
everything in the unit is the same as the original except tthe orifice, the
coil has a .093" instead of .095". the specs say the 10 seer should have the
.093 and the 12 seer should have the .095. The serviceman said this makes no
difference and it'll cost over $400.00 to fix it, Anyone think this is the
problem? Thanks Jim
Why not bullshit a little. It's fun!
OK, here we go:
Neglecting CR (compression ratio), 2% size increase equals 4% flow
Pressure drop is depenant on CR vs orifice flow rate.
With constant load and air temps, CR drops slightly with increased
orifice size, slightly offsetting the flow rate change, but not by
much. And a 4% increase is twice the percentage increase of a 2%
increase, but it's still only 2% more increase than the smaller
So I would just remove the orifice and pinch off the liquid line until
it's throttled enough for good superheat. :-)
And since flow rate per ton is a constant formula,
just use any old refrigerant with enough enthalpy
and latent heat per pound that won't strain the motor,
and adjust the charge and amount of pinchoff on the line.
Maybe try experimenting with capacitor sizes.
And for heaven's sake, don't waste money on new ones!
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