sodding yard, ok to checker?

[SJE]

I have a new house that has no landscaping in the back. I want to sod St Augustine, but due to the size (probably 4000 sq ft or so) the cost concerns me. Would it be okay to checker squares (the full rectangular piece that comes in the pallets, not plug size) of sod? I was thinking of just laying it down so the corners meet, maybe some overlap, so I would need 40-50% less sod. Would this work? I don't mind if it takes some time to establish, I just don't want the sod to die and have to start over again. Would there be problems with the grass not being level?

The ground is soft clay/sand, properly graded.

[David J Bockman]

This is a horrible idea.

Dave

[Pam - gardengal]

I was about to say the same thing in a less diplomatic way....it would look like crap and would never fill in completely. Rethink your game plan.

pam - gardengal

[Ricky]

No. Don't do it. Just lay the sod with no overlap and no gaps. The areas between your pieces, if you "checkerboard" will never fill correctly. There's around 500 sq feet of sod on a pallet so you are going to need at least 8 pallets. If you buy it yourself and lay it yourself you can do it for as little as $100 per pallet.

[Roy]

I've done this. Filled in OK and you couldn't tell unless I mowed real short. I could tell cause it always had a "texture". Maybe fill the spaces with extra topsoil.

Roy - Carpe Noctem

[HA HA Budys Here]

Why don't you sod the "perimeter" in a wavy, flowing "golf-course putting tee" fashion to the degree you can afford, and plant grass seed on the middle?

That way, you can tend to your gardens, shrubs, etc from an established lawn and the middle can take it's own sweet time to establish, undisturbed.

[Phisherman]

You will probably regret doing this later on. A more economical way is to order a load of topsoil and compost, cover the area as evenly as possible, heavily seed, top with straw and keep it moist for 3-4 weeks. Fall is usually the best time of year to do this due to the intense summer heat can kill the tender seedlings.

[cheshirecat]

Don't sod the whole thing. Only sod where it will track into the house if not sodded. Plant perennials, trees and shrubs in the soil where there is not sod and use mulch. If you don't want plants, just use mulch. It will take at least two full years to fill in if you checkerboard.

[Dick Hertz]

That's right, use lots of mulch. Use mulch everywhere! It will take LESS than two years for the termites to take over your house.

[Roy]

As an added note. I did this in a decorative area - kind of a nook. The bumpiness was not important because there was no real traffic, and I could hide the topography by setting the mower real high.

You probably don't want to do this in a large area that you actually use for walking, running etc.

Roy - Carpe Noctem

[cheshirecat]

On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 09:53:28 -0500, "Dick Hertz" not

What are you talking about? Holy shit. Is Usenet getting dumber and dumber by the minute these days? Gone are the days when relative intellects were the only computer users. Now, anyone with a few hundred dollars can get online.

MULCH has nothing, and I mean NOTHING to do with the level of termites in any house. It has NOTHING to do with it. Jerk.

[Travis]

Why not use seed?

[Donna & Jake]

Yes, Usenet is getting dumber by the day, and you are proof positive. Just what do you think is used for bait in termite monitors used by pest control companies? Jerk.

[SJE]

I would, but I live in Houston...only grass used near me is St Augustine. I've considered seeding Bermuda, but figured I could make some enemies with my neighbors if it invades their St Aug lawns.