I have about a dozen "semi-dwarf" fruit trees, each planted 12 feet apart. Does anyone have experience with such trees? Did I plant them too close together?
Also, when initially planting them as bare root trees, how severely should they be pruned? And once they start to bud out, is it too late to prune them?
This ought to help out. You may want to do a search on fruit trees in your state. This should be consistent across most of North America:
Thunder
An interesting article, but it didn't specifically address semi-dwarf trees (are peach trees assumed to be semi-dwarfs?)
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Zootal, I wish I knew what kind of fruit tree you are talking about. I have done some experimenting with dwarf trees. I have 8, seven year old dwarf peach trees that I set out 6 ft apart and pruned them in several configurations over the years. I probably average about 7 to
10 bushels of peaches per year total.The concept behind this is spray and water conservation. I am also experimenting with growing dwarf apple trees on a wire(like grapes).
On your pruning, it too depends on what you have. If it is a peach, it should have been headed back at time of setting out. If it is apple, no, second or third year light pruning to control size and shape of tree.- -you must know what wood produces fruit. For example, a peach only produces fruit on wood that is grown last year. So in February (when I prune) don't cut off all the new wood or you won't have a fruit crop.
I know this may well be contradicted by some of the more "well read" individuals. This is only my opinion based on experience, not some book. I pruned my first peach tree around 1946 as I recall, and have pruned several since.
Have a good day--The Oldtimer.
Seems like you have planted them at about the minimum spacing. There are many variations of size of dwarf trees depending on the exact type of rootstock and the vigor of the scion. You may have to do some pruning, if they start to
bump into each other.
No need to do any pruning while they are still young, assuming they were initially trimmed by the supplier. They should have a distinct leader branch, so if this is not evident, I would select that branch and trim off any competing branches. No need to trim off the smaller branches, unless they are too close to the graft.
Most fruit sets on the new growth of branches, so excessive trimming of them will effectively eliminate their giving fruit for the next season. It is
recommended to remove any fruit that appear the first seas> I have about a dozen "semi-dwarf" fruit trees, each planted 12 feet apart.
I think this Dave Wilson Nursury is way out of line with their recommendations. Dwarfing rootstock IS the best way to control tree size. Excessive pruning as he suggests results in a butchered tree with no shape and much retarded fruit production.
Sherw> > > I have about a dozen "semi-dwarf" fruit trees, each planted 12 feet apart.
Don't worry 'old timer'. You are right on target about pruning retarding fruit production. Peach trees generally don't get too large, even as seedlings, but cutting down the tops to encourage spreading of branches seems to work well for that kind of fruit, certainly not apples. I'm not sure what kind of rootstock you have, but most peach trees being sold are only slightly dwarfing. The really stronger dwarfing peach rootstocks seem to still be somewhat experimental, and many of them have problems such as poor cold tolerance or bad compatibility in the graft union. I'm still waiting for them to develop a suitable dwarfing rootstock that will take a peach tree significantly smaller than a standard seedling.
Sherw> >
I'm sure your opinion has him worried to death. Then again, he's running a succesful nursery, and your just running your mouth.
Bill
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you are fine. in fact, Bay Laurel has a good read on back yard orchards and that includes planting 2 or more small trees in the SAME HOLE. I dont prune them at all when planting unless there is a crossing or broken branch. the basic idea of semi dwarf or fully dwarf trees is to prune IN SUMMER when what you cut off will not stimulate new growth or suckers AND will prevent growth in the direction of the branch that was cut.
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I ordered 10 different dwarf/semi-dwarf fruit trees after moving here (4 apples, 2 pears, 2 peaches,and two cherries), and the instructions said put them 10 to 15 ft apart. If they try to bother each other, you can always prune them in a way to control how they grow. I think your spacing will be fine.
Dwayne
Thanks to all that responded. My trees were purchased at costco, and consist of 2 cherries, 2 pears, 2 apricots, 2 peaches, 3 apples, 2 plums...and I'm missing something but there were 13-14 trees, all semi-dwarf. I read somewhere to put them 10-15 feet apart also, so I settled on 12 feet because they fit better into the space I wanted to put them - I have a *huge* apple tree that dominates a good chunk of my yard.
BTW, how big can apple trees get? This thing is huge - trunk about 3 feet diameter, branch spread about...um...30+ feet or so. And each year it drops a bazillion apples. Which cause me to ask - what was I thinking when I bought 3 more apple trees? :P
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Just because he's running a nursery, and has a busy webpage, DOES NOT mean he know what is "right". I've read a lot of bad suggestions on DAVE'S page. Sounds like Bill is running his mouth too. (so am I ...) It means he's good at marketing.
Severly pruning a tree, repeatedly, will lower the production, and be LOTS of extra work.
bahB
OTOH, if he gave out bad infirmation, he probably not stay in business long.
In your opinion.
Sounds like Bill is running his mouth too.
Not yet.
Yes,
No.
Perhaps you should reread the article again, It's for back yard gardening, not farming.
Bill
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And I'm sure that I'm entitled to state my opinion. The fact that he is in business is no endorsement that he is giving out good advice. His theories on dwarfing trees is way out of line with common knowledge in universities and research stations. Just check the web on how much research is put into dwarf rootstocks and how many huge numbers of them are being used by fruit growers throughout the world. I have been growing dwarf fruit trees for almost 20 years and have not seen any of the problems he claims are inherent in their nature. It's true a dwarf tree may only live to be twenty years or more, whereas a standard tree can live much longer. What he fails to mention is that standard trees are much more difficult to maintain and harvest, and take longer to yield their first crop. By the way, what is your expertise in these matters or are you just defending the poor guy?
Sherwin
Bill wrote:
Unless that huge apple tree (they can easily get to be 30 feet, or more) has some very good tasting fruit, I would pull it out and replace it with dwarfs. You probably don't even have a ladder tall enough to get at the top of the tree. If the fruit is special to you, take a branch off and graft it to a dwarfing rootstock.
Sherw> Thanks to all that responded. My trees were purchased at costco, and consist
Plus it ruins the looks of trees, like apples. Peaches may be an exception to a heavy initial pruning of the leader to get the tree to sprawl more to aid in fruit yield.
Sherw> Just because he's running a nursery, and has a busy webpage, DOES NOT
There are a lot of shady used car salesmen selling junkers out there who are quite successful. Staying in business is not a recommendation.
A full size tree will not fit into most backyard orchards. If it does, there is a lot of work to keep it trimmed down to size. That means jumping up and down a ladder to trim it, spray it, harvest it, etc.
I read the article and this guy is way out of line.
Ingrid,
I agree with most of what you say, but I think putting two fruit trees in the same hole is not a good idea. They will compete with each other for resources and generally get in each other's way. Biennial producing trees are not good. You should do some aggressive thinning to get them back on an annual schedule.
Sherw> you are fine. in fact, Bay Laurel has a good read on back yard orchards and that
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