Problems by humans on trees (2025 Update)

Fowl (?) language, sorry I don't speak bird.

Sorry, I have not and will not produce a useless so called dictionary. Your definetions in your terms has little to do with reality.

Peer review and published? Where is your peer review, tree hacker? Where have you published, other than your web site, and there usually reposts of Dr. Shigo's work.

Beware of so called consulting arborists that have never studied biology, and never was an certified arborist.

Agreed. But, what is too shallow, what is too deep for ANY tree? The weblink Symplastless said to go to has no reference. No tree specified. No depth specified. Leaves the reader hanging, wondering "now what?" in exactly what is too deep or too shallow. Remember, no species of tree is mentioned.

Was hoping one of the posters who advertised themselves a arborist would jump in for an appropriate answer. Should have known better....

Okay. Common trees in our area. Native Live oak (early spring only leaves), Native Juniper ashe - blueberry (needles fall anytime), Pecan (leaves in fall season). Some Yankees are saying to keep the leaves raked up due to what you said on fruit trees applies to ALL trees I've read in similar newsgroup. Course, the common sense types have said "poppycock" as nature shows otherwise in a natural setting. Dave

"fowl language"? Someone speaking chicken-talk? Dave

Simple. You plant the tree, whatever species, most of the time, at the depth the roots come off the trunk. people here plant trees so deep the branches are coming out of the ground.

Do you know the anatomy differences between a woody root and a woody stem? Trees do not have root flares, they have trunk flares. You should look ariound and find a tree biology workshop to attend. Then you will be able to answer your own question.

Roots down, stem up. Mulch to be kept at least 6" from the trunk flare.

Get the book MODERN ARBORICULTURE to learn about trees. I will bet you never read the book. Yet you complain about poor instructions. MA is a lucid book. READ! READ! READ! THINK! THINK! THINK! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE. Can't afford the book. Come visit me and I will give you one. What more can I offer you? Other than that maybe you don't like trees? I do not know!

"Don Staples" wrote in message

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Jangchub snipped-for-privacy@sakadawa.org wrote

Um, f*ck, s*it, doody, crap, asshole, prick, scumbag, mo fo, pee pee, f*ck stick.

Too bad I'm not a man. I can't be judged now.

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- Bad words. Judge a man by the words that he uses.-

Um, ****, s*it, doody, crap, asshole, prick, scumbag, mo fo, pee pee,

This is what they put down in writing????????

Mr. Don

"Here I am" - teaching tree biology at ASU.

I like how you failed to notice the humor ("fowl language- your words") of my previous reply and added nasty talk to it in your previous reply. I deleted your nasty talk in this reply. You are one sick deluded puppy. Take your medications. Dave

I do not find humor with respect to that type of behavior.

When you dig a hole for a tree to be planted, the hole should be no less than twice the size of the root ball. If the tree is in a container, the same rule applies. Keeping in mind the bottom of the hole where you'll insert the tree will need to be roughed up. Better, first, when you dig a hole to plant a tree it should not be smooth. It should be jagged and have rough sides which you can achieve with the spade by jutting it in the sides of the hole and bottom. This aids the roots until they develop and can push through more dense soil.

The plant or tree in the container or balled and burlap then goes in the hole you freshly dug and where you see the level of soil around the tree IN the container, is where your general guide is. Do not plant the tree (of any kiind) any deeper than where it is in the container.

Now, there is another rub, the tree industry is notorious for planting the tree too deeply in the container! In that instance you should pull the soil away from the bark of the containerized plant until you can see the flare at the bottom of the tree and keeping in mind the soil in the hole will settle, place the tree into the hole with the understanding the tree will settle deeper than you originally planted it. So, the level of soil the tree is in, IN the container, should never be below any of the freshly dug hole.

One last thing (and ask further questions if you need to know more); never amend the soil which you will backfill the hole with. ONLY use the native soil which came out of the hole and do not add anything to it. By amending the soil you are setting up a condition for the tree to be in a "container" in the soil and roots will wrap around and around in the hole the way it does in container. Eventually, the tree will decline. Just use the soil as is to fill it back in and then water it slowly for a good period of time to get that soil really wet.

I did leave out one step; always thoroughly soak the roots while it is still in the container. Make certain that root ball is completely saturated and if you use liquid seaweed to water it while still in the container it will greatly increase root development and help with the stress of transplantation.

Yeah, well...

The only trees I rake the fallen leaves away from are fruit trees. That doesn't mean I don't mulch them. I use fresh mulch every year and I avoid mulch made of walnut trees.

For live oaks I always leave the dropped leaves in spring. I have several old growth live oaks which are doing very well and I never remove the leaves. Every other year I may vacuum them so they get chopped up in the blower and I put them back down in shredded form. It helps the macro and micro organisms digest them.

I hope this helps. If now, keep asking. Trees are the most valuable items you can add to your home which will give you back twenty times the amount you paid for them when you do sell the house.

Victoria

So, show your education that you are a "teacher". By definitions in your personal dictionary, you can be a teacher, just not certified, huh, consulting arboist?

I wait with bated breath your definition of what professional organization ADP represents, and when you joined, if it is such.

Hemp has been discredited for years, why do you continue?

Again, consulting arboist/tree biologist, show me where I claimed to be anything but a forester.

Beware a semi literate clown calling himself a consulting arboist.

It is odd D. Staples, you never defend yourself. You only attack others. What are your credentials and/or authority which make you capable of judging the work of others?

Bachelors and Masters, 40 years as professional forester, what are you, chemist?

Bachelors and Masters in what? Yes, Chemistry, with a BS. The "S" stands for calculus.

You have been ingesting too much of your own product. I am a forester, what would my degrees be in?

My degree is in Chemistry but I use it in Enology. Logic is only as good as the premise that it is based on.

Rangeland ecology? If you are a rangeland ecologist I find that a fascinating field of work. I'm very interested in regional structure and corridor species within a regional system.

Texas has ten different regions and when I studied Master Naturalist program, it was just very interesting. Is this what you do?

Pretty much, right in the middle of the Big Thicket, the only biome we lack is desert, but we have the cactus. In a little over one hundred miles from the gulf you can go through all ten regions. With the exception of the upland prairie in the Panhandle.