I'd like to have a tap and die set in 5/8" NPT.
Why am I posting here? Because I bet nearly all of
you have lots of stuff in this size and didn't even
know it. I believe it happens to be garden hose size.
I have an exterior faucet with the threads grown up
with mineral deposits so that I can no longer get a
hose screwed on, and would like to chase the threads.
For some obscure reason, all standard tap and die sets
for plumbing skip from 1/2" to 3/4", yet 5/8" became
the standard for garden (and some washer) hoses.
Obviously, the folks who make faucets and garden hose
stuff have tools to make these threads. Anyone familiar
enough to point me to a source?
If the r.c.m guys can't help you, why not fill a plastic bag with
vinegar and tie it to the faucet? Keep the thread part in the
vinegar. Replace as needed. Cheaper than a new faucet or a rare
tap and die.
: > wrote:
: >>I have an exterior faucet with the threads grown up
: >>with mineral deposits so that I can no longer get a
: >>hose screwed on, and would like to chase the threads.
: If the r.c.m guys can't help you, why not fill a plastic bag with
: vinegar and tie it to the faucet? Keep the thread part in the
: vinegar. Replace as needed. Cheaper than a new faucet or a rare
: tap and die.
I was going to suggest that too Ed, I would add that after you let it soak
over night, use a wire brush to scrub it.
You may get much of the buildup off this way.
Thanks for the suggestion. I may give that a try if I can't find
a threading die. My thought is that acid may dissolve some of the
base metal as well as the mineral deposits, so I will have to be
careful with it.
Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) shouldn't hurt the base metal much.
I soaked a bucket of badly rusted hand tools in vinegar for a few weeks
once. They came out nice and clean. The few things that were pitted
were damaged by the rust, not by the acid.
The way to a man's heart is between the fourth and the fifth rib.
No no no... vinegar is not like real acid.
It shouldn't hurt the bronze or zinc, it just works on the calcium.
Soaking things lke shower heads and faucet diffusers is a very common
housewifey thing to do .. really, it's ok.
If I'll do it to pieces of my $250 faucet, I have no problem doing it to a
$9 faucet head.
Use white vinegar, about $1.89 or you can buy quarts.
Let us know what you do and how it all works out, ok!
: > If the r.c.m guys can't help you, why not fill a plastic bag with
: > vinegar and tie it to the faucet? Keep the thread part in the
: > vinegar. Replace as needed. Cheaper than a new faucet or a rare
: > tap and die.
: Thanks for the suggestion. I may give that a try if I can't find
: a threading die. My thought is that acid may dissolve some of the
: base metal as well as the mineral deposits, so I will have to be
: careful with it.
Actually, I think it's a 3/4" hose thread rather than a pipe thread.
It's certainly not an NPT thread, although it could be an NPS (straight,
Try chasing the threads with a smallish triangle file. I've done that
before with bolts and studs; the brass threads on a hosebib should be
eay, and they're only a half inch long or less. Just follow the
existing threads, it's not like you are cutting new threads with just a
file. HTH :-)
Have you tried a good scrubbing with something like CLR and a stiff brush?
Is there some reason that you can't replace this hose bibb? (It's usually
a fairly minor chore -- see Sept 2003 This Old House magazine.)
Sure I could replace it, but cutting around siding, draining plumbing,
soldering, and caulking is a lot of wasted time and material for an
otherwise working part that just needs cleaned up. Brush or chemicals
risk damaging the base metal, whereas a threading die (unless cross-
threaded) would remove only the crud between the threads. Yes there
are other approaches, but a die seemed like the best first choice.
: > Have you tried a good scrubbing with something like CLR and a stiff
: > Is there some reason that you can't replace this hose bibb? (It's
: > a fairly minor chore -- see Sept 2003 This Old House magazine.)
: Sure I could replace it, but cutting around siding, draining plumbing,
: soldering, and caulking is a lot of wasted time and material for an
: otherwise working part that just needs cleaned up. Brush or chemicals
: risk damaging the base metal, whereas a threading die (unless cross-
: threaded) would remove only the crud between the threads. Yes there
: are other approaches, but a die seemed like the best first choice.
it isn't threaded on?
By the time you got all of this posted, you could have tried the vinegar
Are you sure it's 5/8 NPT? What makes you think that?
Home Depot sells adapters from pipe threads to hose threads and the male
3/4 pipe threads x male hose threads are hard to tell apart. The
difference appears to be that (1) the pipe thread is tapered and (2) the
hose end has a flat surface for the washer to bear on. The hose fitting
has only a few threads, so I can't see if they're tapered, but I suspect
it's not a NPT size at all. There's no reason for it to be a pipe thread
since the hose is sealed to the faucet by a washer rather than jamming
two tapered threads together.
For a single faucet repair, it seems like overkill to buy a die
(probably $20-50 for a special size) to clean the threads. Two
possibilities come to mind: (1) you can take a triangular file or a
dentist pick and clean out the threads with some careful hand work.
(Your dentist probably throws out worn dental picks, so you might check
with him/her.) This might take an hour, but you have probably already
spent that much time trying to find a die. (2) you could replace the
faucet with a new one (cost around $5-15 including a few fittings). This
might require some interior plumbing, but it's within the capabilities
of the average homeowner. Most exterior faucets (at least in New
England) come with an indoor shutoff with a drain so you can keep the
faucet from splitting in the winter. That makes it fairly easy to
install a new faucet after that point. And also to shut off the water
when you really screw it up.
If you're doing some other plumbing, it might be easier to get the
fittings from a plumbing supply house or Home Depot. They have both male
and female hose ends, also swivel hose ends (the standard female hose
fitting found on the hose). They come with 3/4 or 1/2 pipe threads on
the other end, male or female.
Ol' Duffer wrote:
Your main problem is going to be that hoses are not standard NPT. They
have much bigger threads so you dont spend your whole life screwing it
on and off. You would be better off finding a cheap grinding tool with
a firm wire brush wheel.
Good advice, because the hose bib thread is not a NPT (tapered thread)
It is a straight thread that does not seal on the thread, but requires
a washer seal. A tap and die for that thread, in the hands of a
DIY'er would be unusual indeed. You might also consider changing the
Yes, there is such a tool. It will be offered soon on the internet
The tool used to be sold through a mailorder company years ago, an
will be available again soon. There are tens of thousands in use now
Price will be in the ballpark of $9.95 plus S&H.
It "chases" the threads on hose bibs, then a cutting blade surface
the washer seat to restore the hose bib connection. Was popular amon
home owners and RV's ers when they were available. (Hose bibs in R
parks often have damaged threads, and or washer seats.)
It can also be used to "true" the male end of a hose in the event i
is smashed...like when you run over it with a car
If you want to be on the list once the first order arrives soon fro
manufacturer, just let me know and I'll advise when ready to ship
Web site should be up and you can order online within a month or so
If you need one immediately, I could probably get one to you
I looked and asked for one of these every likely place I could
think of last year, and mostly got blank stares. Yes, I am
interested, and here's an e-mail you can send to:
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