Not grubs cuz I applied Grub Ex in April. We also have had grubs previously and this is nothing like it (no holes from squirrels, no turf picking up).
Could be other disease but don't know how to identify. Also, as mentioned in a reply to another poster, the whole lawn seems to have been "shocked" into slow and anemic growth -- with some areas growing very, very slowly (doesn't need mowing even after 3 weeks), other areas thinned or admixed with brown strands of grass, and other small scattered patches just all dead.
Any suggestions on how to ID disease or do you need to send a sample to some "expert" somewhere?
OK - I just looked up our state lab and they offer a long list of tests, including the following. Am I right in assuming I just need either the "Standard Soil Test" or the "Standard Soil Test with Organic Matter"?
Standard Soil Test: Includes pH, Buffer pH, Extractable Nutrients (P, K, Ca, Mg, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B), Extractable Heavy Metals (Pb, Cd, Ni, Cr), and Extractable Aluminum, Cation Exchange Capacity, Percent Base Saturation.
Standard Soil Test w/ Organic Matter: Same as Standard Soil Test with the addition of Percent Organic Matter by Loss on Ignition.
Soluble Salts: Includes a measure of the Electrical Conductivity of a 1:2 (soil:water) extract.
Soil Texture: A determination of USDA Textural Classification by combined Hydrometer Analysis of silts and clay and Dry Sieving of sands. Title 5 Parameters also determined upon request at submittal. Results presented in Tabular Format.
Total Soil Metals: A determination of the Total Soil Contents of K, Ca, Mg, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, Pb, Cd, Ni, and Cr. Also included are the non-metals P and B. Analysis by ICP Spectrometry of Nitric/Perchloric Acid Digest.
Total Soil Nitrogen: A determination of the Total Nitrogen in the soil by catalytic combustion
That's exactly what I'd expect of a lawn with a disease, weed or insect problem, especially one that's stressed from being in shade.
I don't know the correct mowing height for your lawn, as you don't tell us what species you're growing. But yes, this could contribute to your problems. So could OD'ing on the fertilizer/weedkiller combination.
That's not thatch. Thatch is almost impenetrable by water, thick, spongy and undecayed. You've just got some duff.
You have an excellent extension service in Texas; they can help you identify the species of grass you've got, do a soil test, make fertilization recommendations, and tell you what diseases or cultural problems they see in samples you submit. Now that I know you're in Houston (I thought your original post's headers indicated a yankee lawn ), a fungal disease is a whole lot more likely. Or you may have a lawn with species poorly chosen for your growing conditions. Or you may have an insect problem despite your earlier application of grub control.
Here's a start for you from the TX extension website:
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but I think you'd probably be best served by picking up the phone and dialing your area extension office (I know there's one in Dickinson, and I'm pretty sure there's a Harris County office, too. Ask how to submit samples for analysis and disease inspection.
The key to having a lawn that looks good without killing yourself is to choose the species you're growing to match soil and water and sun conditions, fertilize and lime properly, mow at the correct height and correct time, and keep those mower blades sharp. Ragged cuts are open invitations to diseases. With the proper selection of species and cultivars (varieties) and good mowing practices, you'll spend less time on the lawn, and need far fewer treatments of one sort or another.
Kay's rules for sanity in lawn care:
-- choose your species well
-- know your soil
-- mow properly
-- treat the problems you've actually got, not the problems you might have.
Kay, who spent more than enough time in Houston in August
Gads, I need caffeine. You said Boston, not Houston. My apologies.
Same basic advice, holds, though -- shake test for soil texture, send out samples for nutrient analysis, pH, possibly for salinity, find out who does disease testing in your area...
A conversation with the local extension office (or maybe one of the outreach offices of gardens in your area) may get you some leads on possible diseases that have been cropping up recently.
Usually, when weather is triggering a disease or insect outbreak, it's all over, not just in one yard. If yours is the only area really affected, I'd be thinking cultural issues.
But I'm willing to bet thatch isn't your problem. Had you said there are different textures of grasses in the green and brown spots, I'd have thought crabrass and hot weather. With the water stress you've been having out there, however, it could be a number of things.
If by "anti-weed protection", you mean weed-n-feed type fertilizer, it kills on contact, and you get no weed control benefit after rain or watering. That's why they say don't water for 3 days. Don't worry about it. It's done its job.
You could be over fertilizing, causing the grass to grow too fast and become at risk due to heat and drought. I do light fertilizing about half as often as you do, here in Seattle which isn't nearly as hot as Boston.
What you are told is correct. But 3 times a week is probably way too much. 1 inch once a week is what I hear recommended. You need to measure your watering rate to get it right.
I see recommendations to never remove more than 1/3 of the grass in a mowing. Otherwise, you remove the leaves, and only stem is left. This could be your problem. Better to mow longer, then mow again in a few days.
blueman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@consult.pretender:
Those lawn service franchises will ID and treat it as part of the periodic fertilizing fee. They do charge extra for things like aerating, lime, soil testing, etc. They advertise if you are not happy between feedings with progress they will come back at no charge. When you have a problem as you do, in the long run it will cost less then guessing , buying and applying on your own. When they get it straightend out just cancel it.
Don't know about Boston area, but here in NJ this was a very bad summer for disease. There are many lawns in my area that suffered severe damage. I had some problem areas as well, most likely pythium blight and brown patch. The grass in a few areas just collapsed and died in the first two days of 90+ heat.
I'd start by getting the soil tested and adjust the PH if needed. Are you sure you have a thatch problem? Thatch is a thick layer of undecayed grass matter that is so dense water has a difficult time penetrating. It is most common on bluegrass and usually not a problem with fescues.
Now is the best time to aerate and overseed. If the grass has been a problem for sometime, is of poor quality, disease prone, etc, you may want to kill it all off and reseed the whole thing. You can do that with Roundup and reseed about 10 days later.
Forget about doing it by hand. You can get quotes on having it done, but I think you'll find you can do it yourself for a fraction of the cost. You can rent a core aerator for $50 for a half day. Same for a slice seeder. I'd aerate first, then use the slice seeder. While you can just spread the seed around after aerating, using a slice seeder is far more effective. It cuts slits and gets the seed into them, assuring good germination.
Make sure you choose the right type of grass for the location and conditions. Buy only the best quality seed. There are many new varieties of really superior seed available today. After seeding, put down starter fertilizer and keep it constantly damp for 2-3 weeks.
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