Tiny seed question

Hi All,
I have quail. They will eat an seed they find on the surface.
Question on how to plant tiny seeds.
When they packet says to plant the 1/4" deep, how do you guys keep them from floating back out of their holes when you water them. The watering also messes with the first 1/4" of the soil too.
I have tried compacting the soil but it makes no difference.
Do you just give up and plant them 1/2" deep?
Many thanks, -T
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On 7/18/2018 3:01 PM, T wrote:

Spread some straw over them after planting . Not a lot , just enough to break up the water spray so it doesn't wash that top layer .
--
Snag
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On 07/18/2018 01:17 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:

I have heard that straw comes with seeds of its own and that straw plants are very hard to get rid of. Is there some special straw? The kind horses eat? Did I hear wrong?
Also, the sprouts are really fragile and small. Will they have an trouble with having straw on top of them?
Thank you for the help!
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On 7/18/2018 3:26 PM, T wrote:

  I use whatever the Co-op has on hand - usually rice straw here . Yes , there are sometimes viable grains of rice left in the straw , and no they're not hard to get rid of . Certainly a lot easier that the f'in' grass the straw is put down to smother . My use of straw is twofold , first  to smother weeds and the grass that tries - and often succeeds - to take over . Second is to get more organic material in my soil for moisture retention and to make it a more  hospitable environment for the bugs/worms/bacteria/etc that turn the material into nice rich soil .
--
Snag
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Hay is what livestock eats - it has seeds.
Straw is what livestock poops & pees on and beds in - it is simply the stalks of grain crops - few seeds.
John T.
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    Forget the mulch on tender seelings. sez I. It can cause more harm than it does good. For example, the moisure retained by mulches, along with the decay process, can induce or aggravate "damping off", a bacterial infection that causes stem rot at ground level _plus_ mulches provide havens for certain undesirable insects, nematodes, etc.     Personally, I rely on inexpensive dripline irrigation (something I "wish" I'd done 50 years ago) to keep my beds watered and use the fine droplets/mist from a pneumatic pump-up sprayer to keep the surface of newly-planted beds moist. As it happens, I was able to salvage the wand from a defunct sprayer and adapt it for hose-end use but it works so well that I'd actually buy a low-end sprayer just to harvest its wand/nozzle. Really; I would. Lord knows, I've spent far more for far less, and disappointingly recently, too....     Unsolicited Suggestion: If you're relatively new to veggie gardening and haven't much invested, then "study up" on block planting, plant spacing, raised beds, and microclimates. Those practices, along with a cophesthic microclimate, make surface mulches redundant, generally unnecessary, and sometimes detrimental. Let the straw, or whatever, rot in the compost bin, not on the garden.
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Derald
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