Is it normal to get window replacement quotes that cost as much as a luxury car?

Renewal by Andersen is notorious for those six-figure 'convenience' quotes, and they usually target people who are intimidated by the complexity of their own home. Their business model is built on high-pressure sales and massive marketing overhead, not necessarily a window that is twice as good as everything else. With EFIS stucco and custom shapes, you're definitely looking at a more technical installation, but $100k is a 'we don't really want to do this' price or a 'let's see if they're desperate' price.

Your best bet is to find a local window distributor—not a big-box store and not a franchise company. Look for places that supply builders and architects. Ask them for a list of preferred installers who have experience with **EFIS and moisture management**. Since your frames are wood and warped, you likely need a full-frame replacement rather than just inserts, especially if you want to fix the operational issues. A local crew that specializing in stucco will understand how to cut back the foam and properly flash the new units to prevent the leaks that typically kill stucco homes. If you want high performance without the insane markup, look into European tilt-and-turn windows from Poland or Germany. Companies like OKNOPLAST or various REHAU fabricators offer triple-pane units that outperform almost anything made in North America for a fraction of the cost, even with shipping. The hardware on those things is heavy-duty and handles large, custom shapes much better than standard vinyl or composite.

Don't buy the units yourself unless your contractor has already measured them and signed off on the specs. If you order a custom shape 1/4 inch too large and it doesn't fit into the stucco opening, you're the one stuck with a very expensive piece of glass that can't be returned. Get at least three more quotes from local, independent window companies and tell them you want a **full-frame install**, not a retrofit.

You're getting hit with a massive "stucco tax" becasue those sales reps see EFIS and panic. If you want real quality without the RbA markup, look at Marvin Ultimate or the Pella Reserve line for those custom shapes. For the doors, swap the warped wood for ProVia Signet fiberglass—it handles moisture way better than wood ever will. Since you're dealing with 25 units, make sure your installer is using a high-end sill pan like a Sure-Sill. If they aren't talking about integrated head flashings and back-bedding the flanges, they’re going to wreck your stucco. Stick with a local outfit that specializes in AAMA Master Installer standards.

While the previous posters addressed brands, it is imperative to distinguish between traditional stucco and your Exterior Insulation and Finish System (EIFS), as the latter necessitates a very specific drainage plane strategy involving back-wrapping the mesh and using a high-quality sealant like Dow 790 to maintain the expansion joint's integrity. I whould specifically inquire wheather those quotes include a custom-fabricated stainless steel sill pan, beacuse without a dedicated path for incidental moisture to escape the EIFS envelope, you are essentially paying $100k to trap water against your OSB substrate, wich will inevitably lead to structural degradation regardless of the window's manufacturer.

Spot on about avoiding those franchise quotes. They're just marking up the labor from a local crew anyway. One thing I'd add for those custom shapes is to insist on stainless steel fasteners for all the exterior trim pieces. Since you're near the 30-year mark on that EIFS, any regular galvanized nails will eventually react with the finish and leave those orange rust streaks down your walls. It’s a tiny cost difference now that saves you from a permanent eyesore later.

Seen this story a hundred times. These big outfits are just selling you a flashy brochure. Back when I started, we'd just pull the stops and re-weight the sashes, but with EFIS and warped frames, you're past that. Don't buy the units yourself—you'll get the 'homeowner discount' wich is just a markup. Find a local lumberyard that's been around forty years. They'll have a guy in the back who knows exactly which local crew won't butcher your stucco. Ask if they still use lead flashing or if they've moved to the peel-and-stick stuff, and make sure they aren't just slapping caulk over the old sills.