Does replacing all exterior doors and windows actually drop the electric bill?

You're not going to see a return on investment that acutally covers that $22,500 for a very long time. While you'll definitly see a dip in your monthly usage, the payback period on full window and door replacement is usally measured in decades, not years. Even if you save $50 every single month, it would take nearly 40 years to break even on the upfront cost. Your family is right that it helps, but they're overestimating how much it actually pays for itself in the short term.

The real reason to do this is **thermal comfort**. When you get rid of those drafts and the radiant heat coming through old glass, the house just feels better. You won't have those cold zones near the windows in winter or that oven feel when the sun hits the glass in July. That's where the value actually lies. You stop fighting the thermostat and the AC doesn't have to cycle as aggressively to maintain a steady temp throughout the day. As for the price, $22,500 for seven windows and a custom sliding door conversion sounds a bit steep unless you're getting high-end triple-pane or impact-rated glass. Converting a standard door to a slider involves a lot of structural work—widening the header, reframing, and potentially moving electrical lines—so that demo labor is likely eating up a huge chunk of that quote. A custom slider alone can easily run $5,000 to $8,000 once you factor in the framing work and siding repair. Side-sliders definitely carry a premium over standard double-hung windows becasue the tracking and sealing mechanisms are more complex. But I’d still suggest getting at least two more quotes from local installers who aren't the massive national brands. Often the smaller shops use the same glass manufacturers but have much lower overhead. Just make sure that warranty actually covers labor, not just the hardware, because that's usually where the catch is hidden in those contracts.

That bit about thermal comfort makes alot of sense. Does it acutally stop the floor from feeling like ice though? My current setup has such a bad draft that we have to wear thick socks just to walk past the door in January. Also, is there a specific glass type I shold look for to help with that summer 'oven' feeling? I keep seeing 'Low-E' on everything but I'm not sure if that's just marketing talk or if it actually blocks the heat from the sun.

Low-E is legit, but look for a low Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) to kill that summer oven effect. It’s a metallic coating that reflects infrared light before it cooks your living room. Regarding those cold floors, that’s usually air bypassing the frame. If the installers don't use closed-cell spray foam in the gaps, you'll still feel that draft at your ankles. Don't let them just stuff pink fiberglass in there; it doesn't stop air movement. That $22k quote is definatly high—likely a 'convenience' price from a big national outfit. I'd grab two more bids from local specialists who aren't paying for TV commercials.

The noise reduction was the biggest shock for me. After we swapped our old drafty doors for new double-panes, the street noise basicly vanished. If you're near a busy road or have neighbors with loud dogs, that $22k starts feeling like a bargain for the peace and quiet alone. Also, pay close attention to the track system on that slider. If you’re in a dusty area, those bottom-rolling tracks get gunked up fast and become a nightmare to move. Ask if they have a stainless steel track cap. It sounds minor, but it's the difference between a door that glides for decades and one you're fighting with after only two years.

Make sure you look at the U-factor specifically for those side-sliders. While SHGC handles the sun, the U-factor measures how well the window prevents heat loss; you want that number as low as possable for those winter bills. Since you're doing a full demo for that slider, ask them about the sill height too. Some installers just slap a standard high-profile track down, but if you're already reframing, you can often get a low-profile or recessed sill. It's a small detail that makes the transition to the patio feel seamless instead of like a hurdle you have to hop over every time.