I'm trying to put a mains socket in a kitchen and get it as far away
from the sink as possible but that will mean it has to go under the
boiler. Do the regs allow a mains sockt to be installed under a combi
Yes. You are supposed to keep gas and electric services separated,
but I've never seen anyone take any notice of that. I can't recall
what the distance is (it's part of gas regs, not electric regs).
Obviously, if the combi leaks, it could trip the RCD and cause
additional inconvenience. I wouldn't do it for that reason.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
On Sep 29, 12:11 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Andrew Gabriel)
Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind but frankly it's a choice
between being close to the sink where I can definitely see the
possibility of a water dousing or under the combi where the chance of
a leak is slim. If there's no regs against it I'm going to stick it
under the combi.
a qualified installer can check on others' work, but the trade bodies don't
like it. (I was told this by an NICEIC contractor) Since our Building
Control people don't have anyone with even a basic knowledge of electrical
work, I'd rather find someone else to do the checks.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 14:51:32 +0100 John Williamson wrote :
When I sold I honestly declared that I had done sundry unapproved
alterations to the electrics and no comment was raised. If I'd been
pushed I would paid for a periodic inspection report, knowing that all
Tony Bryer, Greentram: 'Software to build on',
Melbourne, Australia www.greentram.com
I sold my house last year, which had had a kitchen refurbishment three
years previously. The work wasn't certified.
The buyer's solicitor's questionnaire asked these questions:
- Has any electrical work been carried out aince 2005 Y/N
- answer: Y
- is a certificate available for this work Y/N
- answer: N
I doubt the buyers even read it.
When we bought our current house, the surveyor didn't comment on the
electrics as he had no way of testing them. He had to red-flag them in
his report, though, because there was no certificate available, and
that's what the surveyor's trade union says they must do. The
certificate turned up in the 3" bundle of papers we got from the
The whole system is basically a joke.
Same here; no questions were raised and that was that. I suspect
basically it's all fine until you get an antsy buyer with an
arse-covering solicitor: it's the solicitor who may well raise it as a
A remember selling on an ex-council house which had a flat concrete roof
area out the back. The roof slab had been built into the cavity wall
when the house was built (1950s?) with basically a large mortar fillet
at the wall-roof junction, as it had been since day 1: it perfectly good
condition and showing no signs of any leaks or weather damage.
Surveyor points out that it's poor building practice or something and
that there should be lead flashing at the joint. Bloody joke; as having
worked on the house myself and known it inside out, it wasn't exactly
the worst issue he could have raised. Ultimately the result was I spent
half a day and £50 or so on bunging some lead up there, and all was
well. (Yeah I know, but a buyer's market at the time; with an antsy
buyer/ares-covering solicitor combo, so a pragmatic decision on my part).
On 30/09/2011 14:02, clangers email@example.com wrote:
In which case ask the BCO in question. Its not unknown for BCOs to have
their own pet likes and dislikes that have nothing to do with the actual
rules etc. (as long term readers will recall with bloody minded BCO and
a cooker point!)
There is no regulatory requirement that I am aware of to not put a
socket under the boiler (and indeed boilers will frequently need a FCU
in close proximity anyway), however common sense suggests one would
avoid doing so if its easy to do so. In this case I would try to keep
the suggested distance from the gas pipe etc if you can, but fit the
socket since it sounds like that is the only place for it, and you need it.
 Save for the general requirement that accessories should be chosen
so as to be appropriate for the location.
When I was ordering new windows from a local firm a few years back, they
asked me who my BCO was, as depending on the answer, they would either
fit or not fit trickle vents (apparently get it wrong either way and the
windows would fail...)
So much stuff seems to be written about part P - much of it verging on
Part P has no requirements for "qualification" as such - but that is a
Controlled and notifiable jobs can be done by anyone regardless of their
qualifications or technical competence. The notification aspect can be
either by self certification if you are a member of a body that permits
permits you to self certify, or it can be done under a building notice.
There is no remit within the legislation to allow someone to certify
someone else's work for notification purposes unless they "supervise"
This puts most LABCs in a difficult position since they frequently don't
have staff with the appropriate skills to make a judgement, and have to
pay for an external firm to inspect and report.
I think that could be more simply phrased:
"you will get away with it" - if we assume you are suggesting that one
does the work oneself, and fails to notify the LABC.
(I did ask a local BCO a few years ago how many "electrical only"
building notices they get... after some thought, he said "none so
far!"). So either people have given up doing their own electrics, or the
competent ones who are aware of part P simply ignore it, and the ones
without a clue carry on regardless).
Solicitors have long since lost interest in it while conveyancing.
Especially since its perfectly acceptable to say "I don't know" to any
electrical questions along with "no I have not got any paperwork".
On 29/09/2011 11:51, clangers firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
There is no specific wiring regulation to prohibit it, but common sense
suggests that right under a boiler is not ideal should you ever get a leak.
(note there are not hard rules about distances from a sink either -
although there is a guideline of at least 300mm IIRC)
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