It's raining on my frame

[Don]

"Edgar"> wrote

Funny thing, other than a couple inside the house, on the ceiling, there are none to be found outside. Weird.

[Ken S. Tucker]

Ah, is this the brother that you played "who can punch the lightest" with :-).

"fatal" don't see why, I had a floor (October) that had ice on it in the morning, wasn't happy but, it was to be a sub-floor if quality is an issue.

Well if it's 5/8" tongue & groove, which is easy to glue and a bit of easy pounding, usually makes a good fit. Not sure any tangible benefit can be derived for the labor of blocking. Ken

[Ken S. Tucker]

One common hassle is "ice bridging", snow melts at the peak and freezes near the eaves, hopefully you'll have ceiling insulation before that's a problem and a well vented attic, darn weather clocks tickin'. Another option is steel roofing in place of shingles, I'm told it's better, tho more $, but then you'll get the roof done in any weather this season. Again, on hear-say, I'm told steel roofs don't have "ice bridging" problems. Hope others will chime in about that. Ken

[Don]

A frozen roof is a little different than a frozen floor.

[Bob Morrison]

Ken:

Actually, there is a structural benefit. A blocked diaphragm has a higher load capacity for the same nail spacing as an unblocked diaphragm.

Having said that, it takes a pretty big roof (think 60x100) before one even begins to approach the load capacity of an unblocked diaphragm.

For 7/16" OSB or 15/32" plywood, edge clips at midspan are required by code when the support spacing is more than 16" o/c. However, if you use

19/32" (5/8") sheathing then clips are not required.

[Ken S. Tucker]

I've used blocking between trusses to keep them aligned vertically, but because the roof was T&G, I didn't worry about them being carefully aligned to any seam so the blocks could be offset for easy nailing. A floor is a different story (pun) because a live load moves on it and blocking transfers load to adjacents joists. But a roof has a dead snow load, and for the most part, each truss is equally burdened so blocking them for strength is not very effective, that I can see.

Not sure I recall Don mentioning his roof sheathing, certainly if it's not T&G then blocking for the edges is certainly best, (I've done that on small buildings).

Thanks Ken

[Kris Krieger]

"Don" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The ones outside might already be tucked into nooks and crannies and beginning to hibernate, which is why you wouldn't see them. At least, I recall learning somehere that they hibernate - I might be wrong. If they do, tho', t The ones that got, and are now trapped, inside are prob too warm to actually get into hibernation mode, so are still looking for a nosh, and a good place to pass the Winter.

[Warm Worm]

"Sasquatch"

On top of some good suggestions here, seeing as some of us agree that life is a circus, how about a big top? Type; "rent tent exhibition outdoor" in Google's Images link and see what comes up.

Incidentally, is it the rainy season where you're located, and what kind of allowances does one normally make for rain?

[john]

I'm not sure which is the wettest month in Wisconsin. I think it might be August, if I remember correctly. But really the variation in rainfall in Wisconsin is not very distinct. For the most part, precipitation is pretty consistent from month to month. Basically, if it's cold enough to snow, it snows, otherwise it rains, and at a pretty consistent rate from month to month, aside from fluctuations from one year to the next.

As for "allowances," I'm not quite sure what you're asking.

- John

Warm Worm wrote:

[Bob Morrison]

Ken:

I should have been more specific. The higher load capacity is for LATERAL LOADS, not gravity loads like snow.

[frawggy]

There is a specified way to install OSB on both floors and walls. OSB can handle being exposed to some pretty harsh weather. I'm a framer in Utah, and we get tons of snow and rain on the benches.. We've chipped away icebergs from our floors and still not have a squeak. The only time you really need to worry about your OSB is when it is sitting ON the ground. or soaking IN a puddle, but as far as having rain hitting it, that's not a problem. if you have puddles in your floor, then your framers should be kicked, but just smack a hole in it with your hammer and it'll drain. Since it's engineered wood, you wouldn't need to worry about your little hole ruining the stuctural stability..

Ken S. Tucker wrote:

[Don]

"frawggy"> wrote

Unless you carpet over it and the wife steps on it with a highheel..... Ooops.

[Ken S. Tucker]

Hear ya, wow, as a kid I loved studying the inside of old barns, could almost smell the sweat and intelligence in framing those roofs. The timber in those is awesome, especially the axe marks. In the progressive 60's and 70's those were discarded as junk as New & Improved metal tech vogued, and the original barns were left to decay. But you gotta love the neat truss designs they used, and as you mention, designed for serious lateral (wind+) loads too. Recall the different styles of lightning rods? Thanks Ken Ps: a helicopter just landed in the neighbours yard.

[Ken S. Tucker]

Turns out they we're just practising, but the neighbours aren't there - it's an empty lot - so wife asked them about it. Fortunately alls well and good. Ken

[abshomes]

Hi John,

A few days of rain should not hurt as long as you have plywood on the deck. If it is OSB, make sure you cover and do not let standing water pool.

Using water sealer is o.k. if the wood was dry, but applying to wet substrait would not work. If the subfloor is open underneath and it not sealed, this will allow the water wick away.

I hope this helps.

Regards, Larry J Clark President Allpro Building Systems

Sasquatch wrote:

[RicodJour]

I think you should start another thread on the same topic immediately. Either that or Google the damn newsgroups.

R

[RicodJour]

I use Ice & Water Shield (or equal) over the entire roof when it's going to be a while before it gets shingled. Normally just the valleys, 1' in from the rake edges and the bottom 3' along the eaves is done in the membrane, but it's a mid-priced compromise that is far superior to felt. I've gone a few months with the stuff on the roof, a completed interior and no problems.

R

[Al Bundy]

"Pat" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

You would be drier living in an underwater home.