I'm re-roofing my garage and tore off the shingles and facia. Some of
the eave support rafters have ends which are rotten half off and were
not doing any support.
Replacing the rafters would be a major project. Normally these eave
rafters support 2 rows of 1x6 planks. I figured on simply trimming the
rafters back and removing the first row of planks. This results in
narrower eaves and uses less shingles. Is there any problem with having
a narrower eave? It seems like a no brainer but I have to ask.
In Southern California
Moves the dripline closer to the garage.
Decreases the shaded exterior wall area.
Decreases possible lift during high wind conditions.
May affect or eliminate any current eave venting by shortening overhang.
Nothing was said about the gable ends if they exist on your roof type. May
be nonexistent if you have a hip roof.
The bigger the eave, the more shading you will get on the house at midday,
which is passive cooling.
Larger eaves usually gives the impression of "higher" quality construction.
You could sister extenstions to the original rafters
By what standard is this a quality asset?
A big overhang, like a big canopy tree close to the house, is an asset for
shading. That is until a really stiff wind comes up. Either can badly
damage the house if either come loose. Its a tradeoff, betting on lack of
severe inclement weather for the life of the home. The odds are not in
favor for most locations.
I think that in Southern California you will actually want to make the
eaves wider, not narrower, for reasons provided earlier. After you cut
off the rotten ends of the rafters, "sister" new (treated) lumber to
the remaining rafter to keep the same eave length, or possibly extend
the eave a bit wider. I don't like the silly short exposed 2x4 eaves
put on most track homes these days for the problems you have faced. I
have built on most of my older home soffett style construction with a
solid treated facia board, which allows for better protection of the
rafter ends, extends the attic space out over walkways and freeze
sensitive plants, and allows for underside eave vents. These soffetts
are actually 2x4 knee joints off the ends of the rafter, and nailed
against a ledger on the house, eliminating the roof slope on the
underside. Before I finished off the underside of these soffetts with
siding material, I spanned the bottom members with the aluminium film
type radiant foil, which is pretty cheap, to reflect an additional 10%
of the summer radiant heat back toward the sun. This does help shade
the side of the house from the intense radiant heat we've had lately,
and in the winter the freeze sensitive plants fair much better than
simply under the usual flimsy eave of a track home. Such a project
isn't very expensive nor difficult to do.
Al Bundy wrote:
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