I don't think there is anyone here who is going to tell you that what
you have will work. it MIGHT work, being only 8 x 10, but it might
not. you haven't told us about snow load in your area, but judging
from the species of trees in your photos, you have some snow.
if it were mine, i would install a ridge beam. then the fact that your
rafters are not installed as opposing pairs becomes a non issue. why
not do it right the first time instead of worrying about it later? it
isn't too late. you can butt one under your ridge board, so that it is
carried by the beam. (you should joist hangar your rafters to the ridge
board). you will have to header off the openings on either end, and
install a post below either end of your beam down to the header. given
that the framing is all exposed, and the small loads involved, this
should be no big deal.
You used 2 different sizes for your rafters?
and you used beadboard not plywood so you were expecting
to have that area exposed?
I dont know how you are going to handel that area
maybe you can string a line up to the ridge and
get a electric hand planer heh
sorry i dont mean to pick your work apart : )
you better just put a ceiling in there and hide it
Maybe that will give you a better idea of what I was talking about
either drywall or beadboard
and insert some 1" foam board insulation behind the drywall
but keep it next to the drywall so air can get up there
and you are going to have to trim those rafters on the right side
either that or rebuild the roof
Hey man pretty good picture modifications.... what program did you use to do
I am going to cover the area with mor match pine but over the rafters of
course. The vents are in place for cathedral... I just was wondering if I
really needed to have any collar ties. As fo the roof sheathing.... that is
how the kit came and was designed. Part of it is for the overhangs matching
the log siding.... I was wondering the same thing when we put it together
.... but that is what Maine Cedar Log Homes does. The pine is cheaper and
tighter. I also/they used 3"x6" wall studding.... it is very rugged... but
the breezeway was kind of a difficult decision as to what to do. That is
where I had to blend the 16 oc and the 24 oc. I thought it was pretty slick
at the time. But after reading about snow load and collar ties I became
concerned. Same old me... shoot first ask questions later.
Aren't we making a mountain out of a mole hill? Just the
sheathing would keep the walls from spreading and if the walls
can't spread, nothing is going to go down. It's not much bigger
than a dog house for gosh sakes. That's not saying with the weird
spacing it will ever look good. I would probably panel the bottom
to hide it.
it's especially funny when you realize the roof isn't even sheathed
anyone who can look at a picture from 1000 miles away and state
unequivically that this doesn't need a structural ridge or collar ties
is blowing smoke. true, it's small, and it may be fine. but it may
not. how are the rafters tied to the plates? how are the breezeway
walls tied to the main structure walls? no offense to the OP, but it
doesn't look like it was framed with a high degree of professionalism.
further, it'll probably be fine this winter. but what about 10 winters
from now, or 20 winters? Do you really want to look at a swayback
ridge when you are a old man and think, well, if I had just spent
another hundred bucks and an extra half day on it.... in my youth, i
was guilty of slapping a few things together that I lived to regret.
not a good feeling. do it right and feel good about it, I say.
You're basing your recommendation on guesses and assumptions. That's
not a good way to engineer a structure. It's unlikely that there would
be a catastrophic failure. Most likely there would be movement over
time. Movement over time in a structure is a definition of failure.
Is there any reason why the OP should settle for sagging in his brand
new breezeway? Considering that the solution would probably cost a
couple of twenties and a couple of hours, if the guy took a break in
the middle, why shouldn't he do it?
Tying the plates together with rod or cable will be the easiest
solution. A true cathedral ceiling will just be an open space with all
interest on the surface. The cable/rod will add interest inside the
space. If you do something interesting with it, say use some rebar
with welded plates for the bolted connections at each end and paint it,
it will be an architectural detail. You know the stuff you'd pay big
bucks for someone to design for you. ;)
o i used photoshop
sometimes pictures can help
especialy me, I know i use different words for things then other people
so i can confuse people pretty fast : )
but anyway that detail where the rafter meets the top plate of the wall
thats gonna be a drag installing pine board there
get a decent jigsaw and a couple nice blades and
string a line and cut them back
so you have a straight line and not that notch
if they were 24oc i would be more concerned on the trimming
but they are 16 and should be able to take a trim
thats my opinion I am not an engineer : )
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