wood screws

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On 6/29/2011 8:48 AM, Leon wrote:

I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available.

I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used...

I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same.
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"Jack Stein" wrote in message
On 6/29/2011 8:48 AM, Leon wrote:

I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available.

I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used...

I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same.
=============== Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes.
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On 7/3/2011 7:36 PM, Eric wrote:

I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me.
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"Jack Stein" wrote in message
On 7/3/2011 7:36 PM, Eric wrote:

I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me.
===================Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. They suck and have been replaced by popular demand by many wanting a better system.
But have a look at this! Just when you thought you had seen it all!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
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On 7/4/11 2:21 PM, Eric wrote:

Bullshit. :-) I don't believe that for a second.
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Don't know if you're pulling legs, but...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
Phillips Head: "Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers."
If you want to be able to break the head, use a Posidriv (also invented by Phillips). ;-)
(later) "Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks."
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On 7/4/11 3:38 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Yes and no... thus the smiley face.

1st. Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source in the world. It's barely a step up from all of us in this newsgroup spouting off our opinions, old wives tales, and stuff we heard a guy tell us that his brother-in-laws' buddy's dad told him. (However, for the sake of this discussion, I will stipulate that this page is 100% accurate.)
2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads."
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On 7/4/2011 4:16 PM, -MIKE- wrote: ...

roger that...
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True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef?

Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-)
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On 7/4/11 5:26 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

I explained that in my earlier post. I have some friends in here. I enjoy the interaction. When I want info from experienced woodworkers, I know who the 4 or 5 guys are who know what their talking about and who constitutes the noise.

google: stipulate

:-)
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wrote in message wrote:

True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef?

Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-)
--------------------------
Mike gets bored easily and like to troll here under this name. Elsewhere he uses other names.
Don't feed it.
mike
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On 7/5/11 7:41 AM, m II wrote:

write anything in here I wouldn't say to someone's face. How about you?
To me, this is a bunch of buddies, sitting on a porch, having a beer, giving each other some crap and laughing about it, and occasionally some good info changes hands. :-)
I'll be waiting for any proof from you about your accusations. Until then, kindly STFU.
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On 7/5/2011 12:24 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

He couldn't possibly have been talking about you Mike, or the other Mike for that matter, both of you are close to newsgroup perfection. And you're a drummer to boot:-)

It shows buddy, it shows.

I wouldn't sit on my hands waiting for either to happen.
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On 7/6/11 11:55 AM, Jack Stein wrote:

Thanks, Jack. Next one's on me. :-)
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wrote:

Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall.
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On 7/4/11 8:45 PM, snipped-for-privacy@teksavvy.com wrote:

I'm not the one who brought it up.
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Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who has worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result is a buggered up head that won't take much torque.
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On 7/4/2011 10:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

Case hardened drywall screws don't end up with a buggered up heads.
With minimum effort, a quality Phillips head screw works just fine for 99% of wood shop needs. The advantages of other types of heads is mitigated by the fact Swiss army knives come with Phillips head drivers, and Aunt Bessy has a Phillips head screwdriver in her kitchen junk drawer, and she has no clue what a hexalobular socket head, or a Robertson is, let alone have a means to attack it. Since Phillips works good enough with few problems, it is the screw of choice... In my shop.
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On 7/5/2011 8:46 AM, Jack Stein wrote:

Their heads seldom become none useful, you just hear the click when the screw shank breaks.
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On 7/5/2011 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:

Honest, I don't recall ever breaking a shank on a drywall screw. I have (rarely) broken shanks on regular screws, never (that I remember) on a drywall screw. No reason to lie, just my personal experience. I abuse the hell out of them too, because I know the head won't strip. I'm more careful with plain screws where I know I can strip out the head w/o much effort.
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