It was brought up that they would streak from corrosion. I'd doubt anyone would care about streaking on the bottom or back of a piece, even though it would still be lazy not to cover those up, imo. This leads one to believe if you care about streaking, they can be seen.
Don't think screws are made in the US anymore!
I would like to thank everyone for their replies. I realize it's gonna be hard to find an American made product. I'm mainly interested in getting something that won't strip out if i have the pilot hole a bit small or not deep enough. I'm just getting started in this wood working thing at 53 years old I've got a fairly decent table saw, a million year old (but tight) radial arm saw and a nice new dewalt planer. I'm currently working on fixing up a jointer. I have 500+ board feet of red oak, purchased at a cost of 72 cents (yes, seventy-two cents) per bd ft. I'm looking forward to making some things for around the house. Nothing fancy, no ornate furniture and the like. I love red oak and real lacquer.
I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available.
I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used...
I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same.
I've yet to see any screw streak from corrosion as long as the wood, any type, remained dry. Indoor wood work generally remains dry, other than in a steam room or bath.
If the piece is subject to moisture to the extent it would streak, as in out doors, then, stainless is the best answer. Otherwise it just doesn't matter, long as the screws don't break or heads strip out easily.
If the "red oak" piece is subject to moisture out doors, streaking is going to be the least of his worries. Red Oak will last about 4~5 years out doors and exposed to the elements.
Stainless cap screws, allen drive. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available.
I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used...
I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same.
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Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes.
I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me.
I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me.
==================== Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. They suck and have been replaced by popular demand by many wanting a better system.
But have a look at this! Just when you thought you had seen it all!
Bullshit. :-) I don't believe that for a second.
Don't know if you're pulling legs, but...
If you want to be able to break the head, use a Posidriv (also invented by Phillips). ;-)
(later) "Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks."
Yes and no... thus the smiley face.
1st. Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source in the world. It's barely a step up from all of us in this newsgroup spouting off our opinions, old wives tales, and stuff we heard a guy tell us that his brother-in-laws' buddy's dad told him. (However, for the sake of this discussion, I will stipulate that this page is 100% accurate.) 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads."On 7/4/2011 4:16 PM, -MIKE- wrote: ...
roger that...
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True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef?
Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-)
Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall.
I explained that in my earlier post. I have some friends in here. I enjoy the interaction. When I want info from experienced woodworkers, I know who the 4 or 5 guys are who know what their talking about and who constitutes the noise.
google: stipulate
:-)
I'm not the one who brought it up.
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